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advice needed raIV
so ive got this 400 ive been running in my car for about 11 years now.its dated 3 of 1970,its a 400 and the letters on the front are ww.im pretty sure its a ram air motor but not positive.i built it a long time ago and had no idea what it was then.heck i cant remember half the parts i puit in it.i only remember its 30 over with trw's,has a comp cam,stock rods and crank iirc.
unfortunately the heads were long gone when i got it.right now it has a set of 1967 670 heads on it with an edelbrock intake. anyway it runs great,oil pressure good,paint just looks a little dingy. my question is what am i sitting on?is it really a 375 horse 70 ram air 4 block?and if it is whats it worth? i do not need to sell it but i just got a 455 that needs a home and figure there may be a judge out there that needs this block.any help is appreciated.oh and im going to get all the numbers off it tonite when i get to my shop.thanks alot. |
PM sent.
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value
I think those blocks are going for around $8k-$10k these days.
Do you remember if it was four bolt main? |
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Scott |
If it truly is a WW block with a 1970 date code then you have a four speed Ram Air IV engine block. Very desirable to make a car correct. There were also 389 cubic inch WW blocks as well so the date code is the deciding factor as well as the casting number as Scott requested (best way to identify). Nice find that was not lost.
Tim john--- |
WW
You may also look for the vin number on the front of the block to the left of the timing cover on the machined flat surface. This number will also give the year, as well as some info to order PHS to find out what the engine came out of
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The date code and casting numbers are the most important. There was a 67 WW block that was for sale around here years ago that I looked at - same thing, seller advertised it as a RA IV. The 67 would have come with 670 heads. |
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Thats open for debate....lol
SR in my book....it would be the way the factory handled a problem eng. This WW (as example) will have another cars VIN stamped on it (normal circumstances). Jeff |
Solid answer Jeff, well spoken. Thanks for chiming in.
Tim john--- |
The service block is really as close to correct as you can come. But if you have a WW that precedes the car's build date by a few weeks and an appropriate service block, it is tempting to use the WW block since it looks correct to most.
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i would take the WW block.it came out of another raiv car and is a production block.also when looking at the front of the block,it looks more correct as it does have the right code on it. much harder to come up with a WW block,SR blocks seem to be everywhere. jmo
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ok went and got the numbers
date next to distributor-c319 back of block pass side-979 front left of timing cover-0650118 hope this helps |
On the back of the block was there anything stamped next to the 979?
Front left of timing cover, were there a couple more digits? Maybe a letter? What are the numbers above the WW? |
we have a winner
69 block, last 4 digits of casting # ground off should be stamped over with 2506, 0650118 is probably EUN ? Look for VIN on side of timing cover
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CTTEMPEST,
Here are the locations and examples for the VIN and BLOCK CAST NU / DATE CODE. Scroll down to the first "beige box" area in link below for VIN locations. Scroll down to second "beige box" area in link below for cast date code location and block cast code location. http://www.yearone.com/yodnn/tech/Ve...3/Default.aspx Examples below from their site.......hope its useful. Jeff |
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here's another view of the numbers
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VIN stamp should start with 29 and then a single letter. Perhaps post the last three digits of the VIN and maybe the block can be reunited with the car. i know of one 69 GTO without its original RAIV block.
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There are hundreds of RAIV's without their original blocks. It is more likely to know of only one WITH its original block. |
the vin on this block wouldn't end in 648 would it?
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