Anyone with a alum 4 row radiator??
 

Champion has a 4 core aluminum radiator for my '71 bird that is supposed to cool 1000hp. Has anyone tried one of these? One place has it for $275 direct fit with trans cooler built in.

I just got one for my 69. Looks good, not installed yet though.

aren't the 2 row aluminums better than the 4 core? how thick is the radiator, or more importantly, how wide are the rows? the whole point of aluminum is that you can make wider rows, typically (2) 1" rows. this cools better than a copper/brass radiator with (4) 3/8" rows, even though as a material brass/copper cools better than aluminum. that would make the pecking order:
1. 2 x 1" row aluminum
2. 4 x 3/8" row copper/brass
3. 4 x 3/8" row aluminum

I bought a Griffin aluminum radiator with 2 x 1.25" rows, which is supposed to cool up to 600 hp or so. Hopefully, that's the best setup.

i haven't heard about the 1 1/4"! that's a wide (thick, i should say) rad! most people don't like the epoxy that griffin uses (though griffin continually defends it). how's it holding up for you?

Yeh...I jumped on one as well. Not sure about the fin configuration. May cool well at idle, but not flow enough air at speed. We shall see. Will likely be a month or two before mine is in service. It is guaranteed to cool, so if it does not, I will return it for a 2 or 3 core. Can't find much feed back on them so far...must be pretty new design. RAIV-Z...let us know if you get it up and running.

I have had the rad for 5 years with no issues.

I bought a Champion for my 75 formula. A/T. been running it now on the new 455 I built for about 3 months. Cools well and fit "almost" perfectly in a totally stock setup,

I had to trim the driver corner of the Core support a small amount as the radiator was a tad thicker then stock. I cut off the small flap that ties the side and bottom together in the corner so that the rear of the radiator hangs over the core support ever so slightly.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4023/...f4d24b3b_z.jpg

Took about 5 minutes. I had to trim the plastic shroud in a circular fashion around the cap to allow easier romoval,

Some pictures here.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/fassofamily/4983915775/

I trimmed the shroud just a hair to shave down the couple of ribs that run across the shroud top inside. Or else it made the shroud tilt up a bit.
Cools my car in 95 degree stop and go to 190. The rest of the time I'm in the 180's.
I used the stock insulators on the bottom just squared up the opening with a razor. I used some other thick foam on the sides and top to give it some cushion. I'm Happy with it.
It sat in my garage for a year before I put it in.

I have a 71 GTO, June 2009 I installed a direct fit aluminum radiator from Summit and never looked back, stock water pump with the Jim Hand Mod to it. A 160 thermostat runs 160, a 180 thermostat runs 180. Stock 7 blade clutch fan no cooing issue whatsoever. The best news is the radiator is literally a direct bolt in.

I bought one and very satisfied. I torture tested it with the ac on 95+ temp drove in traffic came home and parked in the sun almost on the garage wall and let it idle in gear with the e-brake on. After a half hour it never exceeded 190. Stock clutch type fan(original). In traffic was never over 180 and as soon as I hopped on the interstate was back in the 160-165 range(160 tstat) with the ac on! Never went below 190 before unless ac off and 70 or cooler temp out. And I put a 50/50 mix antifreeze in too! (previously in hot temps 20% was about best I could do without temps spiking to 230) Yeah I'm satisfied!(might go up to a 180 tstat for the cooler weather coming)

Two minor fitment issues top radiator cover on the support needed trim for extra width and the flare fittings on my existing lines were too short to seat the flare. I had to find some flare adapters (5/16 to 3/8 flare)that went in deeper and reducer fittings(3/8 to 5/16) for those to go back to my original fittings. NBD.

BTW heres a link to where I got mine ($259.00 WITH shipping). It even comes with a radiator cap. Its fully welded, NO epoxy! Plan on buying another one for my wifes Firebird.
http://stores.ebay.com/Kool-Radiator...=p4634.c0.m322

OR CALL 714 599 3336

FWIW, next time I buy a radiator, I'm probably going with these guys.

Expensive, but looks stock and ALL WELDED, no epoxy.

http://www.chevellecooling.com/58.html

Thanks for the reply....good news!! Glad to here it works well. Hope to have mine in service in a month or so. An engine swap turned into a under hood/suspension restore. The car is too nice on the outside to look so bad under the hood, especially with the new motor. I'll report on the results. Also plan to run the stock fan/clutch and a/c.

Just purchased a Griffin direct fit w/2x1.25 tubes from my local speed shop at 595 double the cost of champion but made in USA:usa2: and should cool better. There was no need to trim any part of the shroud to make it fit it is a true drop in direct fit. What I would like to correct is the epoxy myth. All griffin rads are brazed and then some of their rads are epoxied on top of the braze to add strength. If you go to the FAQ at their site it states this and the tech guy confirmed this. Not all of their rads receive epoxy the direct fit I have did not

you just said they use epoxy, so how is it a myth?

Some believe they only use epoxy, the epoxy is used to add strength to core in addition to the braze, also it may also help to dampen vibration (this is my thought not theirs). The epoxy is good to about 400F. Griffin manufactures all part here in USA to control all aspects of the end product

that begs the question: is the brazing so weak that it needs 'added strength'?

In the 'Pontiac - Street' forum, we are trying to get a group buy from Griffin. Give it a look, it's a very good deal. :)

Yes the stamped tanks look much better than fabricated tanks. JMHO

I used one on my 70 Firebird.......the TIG welding is a dead giveaway but it does have a stock look, fits perfectly and is beautifully made. Epoxy is a cheap alternative to welding and when it cracks and leaks cant be repaired.......