Master cylinder removal
 

Hello all, I am trying to remove my master cylinder, and as I try and remove it from the booster, it is stuck. I am assuming that corrosion is the problem but just wanted to check in with the group to make sure I am not missing anything, as I pull the M/C out it pulls the pedal to the floor and that is as far as it will go. I am hesitant to spray anything inside the booster, but would feel better if you guys think the PB buster wont hurt anything. Thanks Andy

Oh and just as a note, I have the Morain type booster and M/C according to my manual, amazing the original screw type lid on the M/C.

The master will come off the booster after you unstick it, but it will just be an empty casting as the piston is part of the booster.
If you had a Bendix, the master and booster can be serviced seperately.

Thanks, will I need to spray something inside? I can't really tell what part is to be unstuck

I have some pry bars but I dont want to mess anything up, I am going to be swapping the single lunger out for a duel M/C maybe it won't even matter if I need to use a different style because of the Morain booster.

I had a screw type master cylinder on my ''65 bonnie. I don't remember if that meant it was bendix or moraine but it sounds like it was the same as yours.

It was a while back so I don't remember details but I certainly don't remember anything 'holding' the master cylinder together to the booster that would be hard to separate.

I remember just leaning a little on the master cylinder (nothing too hard)... I will look for pictures tonight if I have a chance as I remember taking many.

The only interface between the m/c and the booster is a small little rod/piston from the booster that goes into the m/c. Certainly enough play that it would NOT be responsible for holding the M/C to the booster. Give it a little controlled force after loosening the nuts a lot that hold the two together and it'll separate.

Will try to see if I find pics tonight!

I had the same problem with my Catalina Safari...I ended up adding PB Blaster to the reservoir, letting it soak for a week, adding heat (with a Bernz-O-Matic torch) to the bottom of the m/c where the piston traveled, then gave it a good tug and it came off.

Main problem is the aluminum piston fuses to the iron cylinder.

I sent my booster to a cat named Dewey on the left coast for a rebuild. Ten years later it's still the "Cats" meow.

I found the old thread I had (wow almost 5 years ago...) when I took the m/c+booster off the car and rebuilt the M/C and repainted everything.

It's probably only been 5k miles since then but the system is still stopping me.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...aster+cylinder

The first page has pics of what's behind the M/C.

Hope it helps!

Thanks guys, I have pulled the entire lot off of the firewall and am looking at a dual master cylinder and newer booster swap, Good news is it is starting to cool off here and I will be able to start throwing man hours at this thing, and some cash also. Thanks for the replies. Andy

Andy,

I used a disc booster/master off of a 70 Bonneville on my 61 Safari. It has a large diameter booster and had to dent the wheel well and it works well. This is with 4 wheel disc brakes.
Also have smaller boosters that should not need denting of the well.


Steve

Thanks Steve, I will keep you in mind. I hope to find something here, and I may be pretty close. Andy