Butler Pro Oil Pump. Excessive pressure?
 

I am running 10-30 and my pressure is at 100psi during warm up and still climbs over 80 when warm. What do you think? I have heard cutting off 1.5 turns of the spring lowers the pressure to about 65-70 psi.
455 .030 over.
Solid flat with ristrictors.

too much pressure

call butler, they may have a solution or a different spring

As Pontirag said tooooooo much pressure. Sure by cutting off rounds of spring will reduce pressure, you never know how much you are reducing, not enough or possibly too much. My suggestion is to buy another spring to reduce.

Too much pressure washes bearings and will cause premature failure...

That's alot of pressure shows you have tight bearing clearances. One point to consider is keeping oil to the pump. Hopefully you have a larger than stock capacity oil pan? My fear is pumping to much oil up and not getting enough to drop to the pan fast enough. Also, only run high quality oil filters to avoid ballooning or rupture. I'd like to see the pressure in the 60-70# range but even a cold 80# would help some. I hate you will have to pull the pan to correct the pressure. Good Luck and enjoy. JD

My experience...
 

I have the Butler blue-printed oil pump in my new tight-clearance TA motor. Are we talking about the same pump? I now use 5-30 or 10-30 Mobil 1 syn oil in my engine which pegs my factory 80# gauge when cold and then drops to 70# @ cruise when fully warmed up.

Yes same pump, Butler pro. My rods and mains are both .0025 I dont believe thats considered tight. I run a Canton pan with 7 qts oil.
The engine is out of the car and apart as I am dealing with a ring situation. I want to find a solution before I put this engine back togeather.
Thanks for the feedback.

Why not just put in a 60psi pump? I don't think you need a 80PSI pump, especially with the lifters bores restricted.

Elefantrider,
May be not a bad idea. It was not that I needed the 80# pump so much as a blue printed pump. I am going to contact Butler but if I can reduce the pressure in the Pro pump I have I think thats the route I want to go.
Still would appericate any feedback you all have.

What are the rod side-clearance and crank endplay? Im not really familiar with the pro pump, but if the bypass is set to 80 psi, it should be bypassing by the time it gets to 100 psi. Im not sure how reducing the bypass pressure helps if the bypass is already open?? If you're at 70psi at cruise, then reducing bypass to 60psi would help there.

Typically high oil pressure like that is a product of tight clearances or thick oil. If the butler pump is higher volume than a M54, than its gonna output more oil volume. That higher volume will result in higher pressure through the same bearing clearances. I would think that you need thinner oil, wider bearing clearances, or let more oil through the restrictors. What size are the lifter restrictors? Oil to the top end will help cool the valvesprings.

Rod side clearance is .030
Crank end play is .006
Ristrictors are .040
I am getting this oil reading from the oil filter housing.
The pressure does not go over 80# at cruise but if I romp on it it goes over 80# even warm.
Thanks again for all the help.

I dont see the issue here. 80# on the throttle isnt too much preasure IMO. Its only a product of your clearances. Besides the 3.25 main will live longer and thankyou. Ive been running 80# for years and never an issue. Remember oil not only lubricates it cools the crank journal and bearings also. The big fords run 80-100 for years.

I read a good article on the Butler Pro pump and the benifits. Seems to be two schools of thought too much pressure some say, no problem others claim. Just trying to get a consences.

Just found that article from HPP, here is one paragraph:
The bypass-valve ball and sealing surface of its Pro-Series oil pump are machined and blueprinted. “The bypass spring is tested to ensure consistency, and pressure is set to 75-80 psi at the gauge—though depending upon bearing clearance, it could be higher within the engine. We can shim the pressure relief spring to increase pressure slightly, or install a 60-psi assembly to reduce pressure, depending upon the engine’s needs. The finished pump is completely tested and includes a detailed flow chart,” Butler adds

Read more: http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...#ixzz1egYccjVO

I am deffinatily contacting Butler and see what thy say.

You can take a pump and completely block the flow of oil, and the pressure will be whatever the pump bypass (with that weight of oil) releases at. I have test spun oil pumps up by bolting them in place on a spare block, and attaching a remote filter plate with hoses, pressure gauge, and valve to close off the oil flow after the pump is primed. This has always given me the maximum pressure the pump will produce in the final installation. You can't get over 100% restriction so I wouldn't believe the quoted paragraph saying that different engines might produce more pressure. Therefore, tight clearances do not have anything to do with excess pressure. Loose clearances will of course bleed off enough oil so the bypass never has to open. Les' engine was also set for .0025" clearance and even with the 20w50 oil the pressure was only 82 pounds with the engine at operating temperature. With the lighter weight oil he has now, the pump is performing exactly as per the Butler specs.

Did you check the oil pressure with a back-up gauge? I'd do that first, and if the second gauge also reads 100 lbs., then I'd return it to Butler for warranty replacement.

There is a washer (shim) under the spring in the Butler pump....it is a very nice pump too! Haven't started the motor yet so can't comment on the pressure....Eric

A few things you should be doing my opinion: Never take oil pressure from filter hsg, take it off oil gallery at rear of block. Have you plugged off the bypass in the filter housing? If no, then you are opening the bypass in the filter hsg and pumping un-fitered oil into the block if your running a 100 psi. If it IS plugged off, what kind of filter are you running?? When I was younger and green I built a 400 Pontiac, had filter hsg bypass blocked, was taking oil from the hsg (which is on the INLET side of the filter) so you get a real high press reading even if the motor is starving. I started out using the fancy 2 stage oil filters like Pete Mcarthy reccomended, when I couldn't find one I bought a off the shelf Fram. Well to make along story short the filter did NOT flow enough, had 80 psi of oil pressure, was out beating on the motor and spun some rod bearings, before I tore it apart I installed a gauge on the back of the block. When I would rev it up the filter hsg gauge would show 50 and climb, the block would show 40 and drop. At 6000 rpm's I had about 20 pounds of oil pressure at the block, hence destroyed rod bearings.
Since then I always block the hsg off, take oil from the block and run a high flow k/n filter, you would be surprised even with your current set-up that you might have a little less at the block then what you are seeing at the filter hsg inlet, Smitty