Product to fill in pin holes in floor boards?
 

Can anyone recommend me a product to fill in pinholes? I wire brushed my floor boards getting them ready for some POR-15, but I noticed there are some small pin holes near the passenger floor board area. Nothing major that requires cutting out and welding patches. Is there something I can spread on before applying the POR-15?

Thanks! :cool:

Any 2 part epoxy putty will do the job. Most auto parts stores will have it in a small tube that you can cut off a slice then mix the 2 parts thoroughly. Por has the same putty in a kit but it's probably more than you need quantity wise.

Cool, didn't think about epoxy putty. Should I Por-15 first then epoxy?

I think Por recommends paint first but you may want to check with their instructions.

Use the POR-15 with some small pieces of fiberglass cloth.

Done.

Really? You think the POR-15 will act like a fiberglass gel? I just want to stop any further rust from forming so I can lay down some Dynamat heat & noise barrier. Then I can lay down my new carpet. :cool:

I have done it on a few of my cars, it works well.

Went down to Pepboy's during lunch and picked up some Liquid Metal by 3M. Comes in a tube and it's pretty heavy. My friend said he used it to cover some pin holes in his '80 Trans Am and it worked really well. He said it spreads on like seam sealer. Once it dries it's just as hard as real metal. I also found some 4' x 6' Spectra heat shield material for only $24 per roll. Just wish I could have found some POR-15 locally. I'm going to order some online and hopefully have it here by the weekend so I can work on the car. :cool:

Use por15 silver. Supposed to be for repairing pin holes in roofs etc. Never used it but from what I read looks like a decent fix.

X2! This is the way to do it. DO NOT put POR on paint, on epoxy, etc, it will just trap moisture
I have even covered small holes by Dipping the fiberglass sheet into the por 15 and just putting it on there. If Non structural its just as good as metal.

POR-15 floor patching
 

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Thanks for the info b-man. I cleaned up my floor boards today and they were not as bad as I thought they would be. Biggest area of damage is about the size of a 50 cent piece maybe smaller. I will use your fiberglass method for the repairs. It seems to do the job really well. Just wish I could find POR-15 products locally. I hit up all the local hardware stores and autoparts stores today and no luck. Nobody carries POR-15 locally.

http://www.texasdragracing.com/pics/...ta-floor-1.jpg

Area behind the drivers seat before grinding.

http://www.texasdragracing.com/pics/...ta-floor-2.jpg

Area behind drivers seat after grinding. Going to take a heat gun and scraper to that tar junk tomorrow.

http://www.texasdragracing.com/pics/...ta-floor-3.jpg

http://www.texasdragracing.com/pics/...ta-floor-4.jpg

I discovered a rats nest of wiring. Going to redo everything.

http://www.texasdragracing.com/pics/...ta-floor-5.jpg

Largest area of damage.

http://www.texasdragracing.com/pics/...ta-floor-6.jpg

Pretty clean in my opinion...:cool:

http://www.texasdragracing.com/pics/...ta-floor-7.jpg

looks pretty good. Make SURE you lift up the Ebrake cable and do under it, and ensure its free and working, then do the cable too.
I would use the "Metal Ready" etcher before the POR.
You can fill the pin holes with a tube of POR patch first, then after a day if warm, use the POR if etched. The pass side floor use a small square of fiberglass cloth and dip it in the POR and lay it on the etched metal and your done..:)

I noticed that Summit Racing now carries POR-15 products, may be the easiest and fastest way to get the stuff.

I like Rust Bullet, I have used it on two classics now and I would not use anything else. One step - paint it on your clean bare or rust metal and your done gauranteed for ten years. My 2 cents.

Just my :2cents:, but it looks to me as tho the strength of the metal is gone up front in those spots. You need something to reinforce the floor. I'd treat the rust to kill it and then lay in fiberglass for the floor... inside and out. Easier than cutting out the floor, and you'll have the strength back again.

All that snow up north over the years has soaked thru the carpet and made a mess of the floorboards. I went thru that with a 72 Coup DeVille I used for the winters only back in the early 80s. Fiberglass worked great... and it won't rust out. Believe it or not, it was done to my GTO, and I have no issues at all with the floor boards rusting. Besides, no one will ever see it until I sell the car.

To fill pinholes in the floor pan of one of my projects I used a product called All Metal.
Its very sandable but gets hard enough that it can be drilled and tapped.
I had very good sucess with this stuff.

Your local body shop supply should carry a product
called chassie saver. It's like por-15 but cheaper in
price. A pint can will do your hole floor. Might want
to check it out.

GT.

Good stuff, I still would also buy an etcher solution and use that first.