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door hinge pins/bushings
What is the best method of replacement for a 70 GTO?
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I don't know if your goat is any different than my bird, but I do them one at a time. Keep the door closed. Seems the best way to maintain alignment without a bunch of resetting. Of course, I do this with the fenders off.
Dave |
if you pop the pins out theres no need to realign
get the spring compressor to remove the spring. There is a kit you can buy to help remove and reinstall. Support door with a floor jack and plenty of towels and have a buddy hold it upright with no load on the pins while you remove them. |
The above method works very well.
In my case I had to remove the hinges as the holes were completely egg shaped. Also, drilling oversize was not an option they were so bad. I just asume everyone else has it as bad as I do. :rain: Dave |
You can buy the rebuild kit right off the shelf in the red 'Help' section of the local parts store also. Just tell them the car type and they'll tell you the part number for the right kit.
I bought a set for my '68 there. It was less that ten bucks per door. |
The biggest issue for GM hinges are the detent rollers.
GM used a plastic bushing inside the roller. Over time, the bushing wears out, making the roller very sloppy on the pin. You cannot get the pin out of the shaft, and no one makes a replacement that is exact. GM used heat treated rollers, and no one in the aftermarket heat treats theirs. The best kit on the market is made my Motorcitymusclecar (Inline Tube) on e-Bay. Their kit has pins, bushings, and new detent rollers. Or, NOS if you can find them. |
I currently market a kit for the newer GMs that have the replaceable detent pins.
Kit includes new GM pins and a sealed ball bearing roller that replaces the bushing I have adapted this roller over to older styles by cutting off the top of roller post and drilling and tapping for a retaining bolt. And the kit I was talking about is one that removes and reinstalls bushings and pins http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/door...ols-c-600.aspx |
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Thanks |
3 Attachment(s)
first pic of just the rollers and pins
the rest is the deluxe kit for ones that use replaceable pins and bushings in later GMs last pic is the older GM bushings Im out of hinge pins for older and newer GMs so only used ones are pictured |
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heres the 66 GTO hinge with roller mod
I will be incorporating the newer GM bullet pin into this so it will be replaceable (if its ever needed,which is unlikely) |
What is the pricing of the kits?
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since this is not the for sale forum PM me with what you want
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Just as a follow up, finished one door today. What a pain. I used the kit from Inline Tube. The existing pins were pressed in very tight and I had to grind off the ends of all 3 pins where they were peened on. I had to use my Dremel and drill and finally got them out. There was no way I could knock out the top pin without unbolting the door first. Of course we had to realign the door afterward and I fubared the paint on the leading edge. Not a project I want to tackle again.
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didnt know you were going to remove the door,would had suggested many layers of tape to protect the edges.
Also can do one hinge at a time if you sling the door and support from overhead or use a door dolly. |
The tape was an unfortunate afterthought. No sling or dolly, just a patient friend.
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I use a floor-jack with heavy cardboard, blanket or whatever for protection. You can do it alone that way..although not advised.
Yeah, tape is a must along edges whenever you're adjusting fenders or doors, installing a hood for the first time, etc... |
I knew of taping the paint but wasn't planning on removing the door. Got in a hurry as my friend could only help for a limited time and didn't think to tape. We did use a floor jack with towels but that was as smart as we got.
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I built a caddy to hold doors and can do it by myself
I remove the saddle on my large floor jack and install this with a 1 inch bolt. It has padding so the door is not scuffed. heres a pic of it hanging upside down in the rafters |
That's nice Cammer.
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had 2 S10s(2 dr and 4 dr) and had to change all the doors on both and back again(long story) and not a nick on anything. Whats real nice is when Im doing a bushing job and can move the door out 6 inches away from body and not disconnect any wiring or remove door panel,which is a real big labor saver. |
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