Purple Power beware!
 

I bought some of this degreaser at Walmart for around $4 a jug. It's advertised as a multipurpose degreaser and I used it on a few concrete driveway stains. Works great for that.

I had an extra jug laying around so I thought I'd try it on some greasy engine and suspension parts.

Bad mistake! This stuff is not for painted parts. It eats paint just as easily it dissolves grease, leaving painted parts white/oxidized.

Beware what chemicals you use on your cars. Some of this stuff is really crazy abrasive.

Is the safest degreaser for engine/suspension parts still Simple Green?

I spray Simple Green directly onto my paint to soften the bugs up before driving it through the car wash. I also soak my Rally IIs down with it to combat the brake dust at the same time. It goes on straight and it has not damaged anything yet. Oh, I forgot the other use; I spray it on the sides of my car especially by the rear quarter windows to loosen the industrial strength adhesive commonly known as dog slobber before washing also!

Karl

:usflag:

Here's another news flash for you....That purple stuff will turn aluminum very dark, almost black and you can't polish it out (I don't think so anyway). It seems to actually convert the color..
It's great stuff and I always keep some on hand.... but you have to test it on anything you haven't tried it on before. I think the big issue is that it contains Lye and aluminum does not like lye.

Sounds almost like one of the rust convertors. That's pretty cheap is it works for that.

Oven cleaner turned an aluminum Kart motor dark when I use it also as a degreaser.

There are two jugs, one in white called "purple power" about $4, and another heavy duty version in a purple bottle, about $7. Both are from the same manufacturer and look like the same chemical. Nasty stuff for engine bays. I would only use it on driveways or parts you want to repaint.

Even Gunk brand foam aerosol engine cleaner is not as harsh.

If you dilute it it is no where near as harsh, full strength it is pretty effective to remove most anything.

I know none of us ever does this, but the directions tell you to dilute it for most automotive uses although it does say full strength for automotive engines. I know, if diluted works, then full strength will work better,right?...................LOL :D

For most automotive cleaning uses it says 10-1, also says to test it on the surface before you use it full strength and be careful of aluminum.

I've been using it for cleaning most anything in the home or car for at least 5 years, if you have white or light colored linoleum or tile it will brighten it up better than anything I've ever used. We used to have white linoleum in or kitchen and my wife couldn't believe how much of the dingy stains that it removed. The floor cleaners and household cleaners she tried worked as well as straight water, Purple Power full strength made it white again.

Purple power works great as a paint stripper on plastic parts. It is the best product I have found for that.

Were you able to neutralize the white after finish?

Not yet. Tried some soap and water but that didn't work. This stuff is strong. I would not use 1:1 again on car parts, no mater what the instructions say.

rundown on main ingredient

ether (DGBE) is a type of glycol ether. It is primarily used as a solvent in coatings, inks, cleaners and specialty fluids, or to produce diethylene glycol butyl acetate.1 It evaporates slowly and is completely water soluble.2 Dow sells DGBE under the trade name Butyl CARBITOL™ solvent. See Product Uses, Product Description and Manufacture of Product.

may react with bases, aluminum and oxidizing materials. ETHYLENE GLYCOL MONOBUTYL ETHER(111-76-2) is liable to form peroxides on exposure to air and light. ETHYLENE GLYCOL MONOBUTYL ETHER(111-76-2) attacks some forms of plastics, rubber and coatings. .

and toxic of course...

I have some bathroom floor tile that is rust stained. Nothing has worked on it. Think this stuff would work?

If this stuff doesn't get it out nothing else will. I've used it on linoleum, tile and terrazzo floors and it has always done a great job. Test it before you slather it on the floor though so you don't end up replacing tile. Make sure you have plenty of ventilation the stuff in a small area will make you cough if you get a good dose of it full strength.

I assume you've tried CLR? .... The 'R' is for rust.

'Purple Power' has been around at least 30 years or longer. At least that's how long I've been using it. It was called 'Cartex' around her back in the late 70's and 80's. And yes, you MUST dilute it, and never get it near any wheels that don't have a clearcoat on them.

Another one to avoid using on painted/coated parts is Mean Green. IF you have a Zep dealer, they make an aircraft wash that is FAA/DOD certified as well as Boeing and McDonnell Douglas certified.. It will not corrode metal and will remove most greases, oils and carbon soot.

I went back to Simple Green. Might take a little longer to dissolve grease but seems safer on parts.

dang....
i learned that purple power lesson back in the 90s when it came out
NOT fun when you have a nicely painted engine
it is great for degreasing though, but need to use caution

Will it deteriorate rubber hoses etc?

Castrol Super Clean works very well for heavy-duty cleaning jobs. It is very harsh when concentrated, but can be diluted for lighter jobs. You would not want to use it full strength on painted or plastic parts, but diluted would be OK.

Super Clean was formulated to clean the parachutes on drag cars. I've used it with success for many years.