79 window molding in black
 

I have small chips from the old man buffing the car and putting painters tape on the molding.YEAH HE DIDNT TALK TO ME FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:mad:
Is there a remedy for small chips( I want EXACT color match and sheen), or who has the NOS front winshield center molding for sale?":confused:

You need to paint them and you will be happy you did.......

Even if you were lucky enough to find NOS ones...the paint would be falling off them as well......

It's an easy FUN project on a nice sunny day.....buy yourself a rattle can of SEM 39143 trim black and have at it...

I am going to paint the ones for my Y88 as the original paint is flaking off everywhere. The paint does not like to adhere to the anodized surface of the moulding because there is nothing for it to bite into. I am going to lightly glass bead blast my mouldings before painting them to solve that problem.

I prefer to start with ones that haven't been painted yet,from a base bird or Esprit...a good scuff with scotch bright is usually all they need...

Does this SEM 39143 blend with original painted moldings or is this a complete respray needed?

It really depends on how much UV exposure they/ve had.......FAR LESS labour intensive to remove them and respray....touched up stuff always looks touched up.

Oh I hear you there,it's really only the front windshield top center molding that needs attention,I already used some exterior black from Hugger Products in fixing the spot,it does not match the original........and mine were perfect on the 23k mile survivor 79...the car was kept indoors all it's life...mostly climate contolled too from what I know.
I just don't want to pull/paint all the trim off to make it match,it was all perfect original until dad got crazy.:rolleyes:
If it is a perfect match for the original,I would just do the top center piece.

Just a FYI.....you NEVER want to use a machine to buff factory paint of that ERA.......

Why do think there are almost none left with original paint?

They put so little on...and everytime you buff it...you loose a layer....

Good to know thanks..........

Someone makes a black paint especially for trim, call an automotive paint supplier, if possible.

I just found a complete 78 firebird at a pull a part salvage, the window trim was the first thing I got off of it (:D).

I scotchbrited another set years ago, and primered, them, then painted them w/ acrylic enamel......most of that paint is gone now, crap I went to a lot of work, to do that.

I am thinking about buying etching primer in a cam, cleaning the trim up, scoth brite, etch primer, THEN black paint....

Father&Son,
I wouldn't get my hopes too high for finding any paint to perfectly match, you 2 side pieces. Clean it all up and re-do all 3 of the front pieces, then I'm sure you'll want to make sure it matches the rear trim.....yee ha...waiting to hear how it goes.

I blasted mine lightly with actual Beach Sand, Then lightly went over it with a ScotchBrite pad and painted it John Deere Blitz Black, Looked amazingly better than I figured it would ,

I'm just going to leave it alone,most can't even find it on the car unless they know where to look.........until I come up with the correct solution.

Anyone look into having them powder coated?
I am thinking of doing that, haven't done any research yet.

I'm kind of out to lunch on powder coating. I've heard/seen it's benefits...A friend bought a tool box that mounts across the bed of his pickup, the powder coating was ok for a couple or years, but is coming off now....

Might to good for a cat, that's stored inside.....

I tried that on my '79 10th anniversary. Some of the new paint got chipped off as I installed them! I ran a test on a moulding that was already damaged. I sandblasted it in my cabinet and sprayed it with the black trim paint. No problems with adhesion and it looks fine. Of course, once you blast them, there is no going back....

I think the big problem with things that you buy that are pwdercoated are from china and I doubt the surfaces are prepped properly PRIOR to coating.....

I think the key to powdercoat staying on is correct surface prep...sand/glass beading etches the surface and gives powder or ANY paint some "tooth" to stick and stay properly....

I was going to ask the same question. I've not dealt with this issue in 30 years, they seemed to chip almost as quickly as I could fix it back then. I would think a quality powder coating company could make a much more durable product. But...

Not to hijack but searched and didn't see any guidance on how to remove these molding without dammage. any tips? Thanks

You need a trim removal tool.......the third one in the picture ,with end that looks like an arrow....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WINDOW-DOOR-...p=mtr#shpCntId

And a fibre stick...to insert under the trim to raise it slightly for the molding release tool.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Windshield-S..._Tools&vxp=mtr


Both items should be available at your local specialty auto parts store....