Break in oil
 

My engine builder said to run it 500 miles. Some on here have said to change it immediately after initial break in, and some have said to just replace the filter. What is your opinion?

[QUOTE=69Farburd;5232645]My engine builder said to run it 500 miles. Some on here have said to change it immediately after initial break in, and some have said to just replace the filter. What is your opinion?[/QU

change after breakin/cut filter open. then 500 miles change again/cut filter open

What`s your break in oil?

Is this a roller cam? Or flat tappet? If the latter cam break-in procedure, best to dump oil while still hot, immediately after break-in period.

It is Joe Gibbs break in oil. The container doesn't say what weight it is. Flat tappet cam.

Most break in oils are thin and don`t offer a lot of wear protection. After all, they`re supposed to let a little wear happen to "break in" the engine. I would drain that out after your break in.

I use a Penzoil straight 30w oil and a bottle of GM EOS for my "break in" package. I change the WIX oil filter only, after the 1`st 30 min. of cam break in. I leave the oil "package" in for 500 miles [street engine] to finish the piston, ring, crank break in as well as giving my cam more time to finish it`s wear pattern. Then, drain the break in package, change the oil and filter to what you plan on using.

Never lost a cam or engine yet.;)

Every builder will have their own procedure for what works for them. I usually advise guys to dump the Break In specific oil after the flat tappet break in period. Change to a good oil and filter and drive it for a week and change it again. I don't really follow that 500 mile rule, especially not on "Break In" specific oil, which is usually very thin and comes out like water even after the initial 20 minute rule, I don't trust leaving it in for long, especially 500+ miles, but that's just me. Oil changes being a little more frequent in the beginning and if all looks good, you can spread them out, just make sure with any oil change, you use a specific, clean drain pan. That way you know whatever was in the engine, is now in that pan....Hope this helps.

I have not done a tone of engines, just several. What I have always done with a flat tappet engine is: break in the cam. Immediately dump the oil. Install new oil. Run 500-750 miles. Dump the oil. Install new oil and off you go. I would never run cam break-in oil with all the initial crap in it for 500 miles. No way. Oil is pricey, but not THAT pricey...

That`s why you change the filter after 30 min. or so. It`ll catch the "shavings", moly paste, etc.

I also don`t use a break in specific oil. Just good ole 30w. I like to keep a good shear strength oil on my cam longer than 20 to 30 minutes.

Yes, I have never used 'break in oil'. Just SAE 30 with ZDDP added. Then 10/30 or 15/40 with ZDDP added for the next 500-750 miles. Regular oil.

It`s all good. Iv`e got about $12,000 in this engine. It has the 30w in it now with EOS. So, I`m comfortable with it. I`ll still change the filter after 30 minutes but, it`s got a roller cam and I`m not worried about a flat cam. Just a good ole break in.

This is what I do. Additionally, I take the inner springs out for break in. No problems after several builds. The cost of oil is CHEAP compared to any engine build. I also used to run low/non detergent oil. Switched that to vr1 conventional and changed the oil just like I would for a cam break in. Peace of mind is worth the cost alone.

Another good idea that just adds a little extra insurance is to place a strong magnet on the oil filter (such as one of those "Filter mags"). It will hold on to the fine metal particles from the cam break in and won't let them circulate into the engine.:2cents:

which oil?
 

I have always used Valvoline 10-30W and have been happy with it. Now I read all the stuff about not enough ZDDP. My guy at O'reillys says to use Valvoline VR1. I have a flat tappet cam and newly installed Comp Cams roller tip rockers. I read that the 20-50 is too thick, and that the 10-30 is too slippery for the rollers. I don't want to start another oil war, but between these two, which should I use?

Too slippery for the rollers? isnt that the idea of rollers? less friction rubbing the tip of the valve? Maybe he's confusing Roller Tipped Rockers for Roller Lifters. I vote for Mobil 1 0w40 or Mobil 1 5w40 High Mileage both have 1000 ppm zddp. I think VR1 10w30 is OK. Opinions are worth every cent. check out bobistheoilguy.com

:gag:

Too slippery? :gag:

Use the 10W 30 it will be fine.

I will explain too slippery. I read that the 10w-30 is too slippery to create enough friction to allow the allow the rocker rollers to turn.

just make sure you get a good prime on the motor before starting it up
regardless of X oil used, if you start it dry and it takes a while to get oil pressure up...
you'll run the risk of potential damage

kindda makes you take the ole days of oil being less than .50 a qt for granted
we used to get cases less than what we pay for a cheap qt now lol

Use 5w30 then. If it was too slippery, doesnt that mean that there is an oil film between the 2 metal surfaces and if thats the case, it doesnt matter. I think its all hogwash.

So do you use air to hold the valve up or do you remove the head to replace the springs?

I see the comp recommends this method. What is the best way to do this ?

I was also told to run the engine for only 5 min at a time let cool offcomple the run 5min repeat until you have 30min break in time.

What is working and what is not on engine break in theses days?

As far as oil I use Brad Penn ( the green oil)

Thanks