intermittent stalling
 

my aunt (89 yrs) and uncle(90 yrs) have a 2001 impala v6 with intermittent stalling problems. they live in Edmond OK. They have been to local mechs. and the Chevy dealer with no luck. car had this prob before and was "fixed" by putting in a "new" engine to the tune of $5000 P&L! It actually helped for a while, but they drive only a few hundred miles a month.
The questions: does anyone know if this is a common prob, and if so is there a common solution. Is there a sharp mech. in the Edmund/OKC area that you recommend.

Have the mass air flow tps sensor and the crankshaft sensor checked, these can have intermittent stalling my thoughts would be the tps sensor and if the engine needs to cool dawn before it starts it would probably be the crank sensor.

Hope this helps gregg

Man I hate this spell and word chek technology
.
Gregg

Intermittent stuff is rough to nail down. It takes a scan tool, repeated test drives to duplicate the issue. Do they have to jump start it or does the battery stay up ? Some times they loose the idle strategy if the battery goes flat. Got to make sure the basics are up to snuff, clean throttle body, good fuel,tune up. Tough nut when its the older folks car.
John

LG: 3.4.
Chevy dealer took test drives . put 100 miles on it. couldn't replicate the problem.
I've heard about the CSS and MAF. I may have them go that route. It's a 1400 mile trip for me to look under the hood.
Does not throw a code-it just stalls. sometimes it restarts, sometimes not. BTW this car has 44K miles. looking for a hot shot tech in the Edmund area.

I'm just going to throw out the, check fuel pressure regulator. Even low mileage ones can go bad. But, usually throw a code.

Any indication that the stalling only happens under certain weather conditions?
My '89 Buick w/3800 has had an intermittient stalling condtion that has plagued me for four years. It usually occured within 5 minutes of cold start during damp/cold weather. It would always re-start but sometimes it would run very rough and not idle below 1500 rpm. Shut it off and wait 20 minutes and it would run well enough to drive it.
I was about to replace the ECM this spring but a parts store vet suggested the ignition module might be the culprit. Well, I had never realized these engines had a seperate Ign module. I always assumed the coil packs did all the work. I had checked them numerous times with an ohm meter and they were in spec.
So I ordered a new Ignition module (which cost more than the re-man ECM) and put that on. It test drove without any issues on a wet, rainy day in April so I though I had finally cured it. A couple weeks later, it acted up again on an 80 degree day after the engine was fully warmed up.:mad:
At least since then, it hasn't done it again, but the verdict is still out.

If it runs good otherwise, I would start by cleaning or replacing the IAC valve.
IAC = idle air control.

Also a good throttle bore and plate cleaning.

There's also a vacumn block on the top of the manifold that likes to pop out. Might be as simple as that.

I had a similar issue with my daily driver. It was just completely die out of the blue. I disconnected/reconnected every connection and every relay wiggling wires. Now it 4 years later and the problem never came back.

Rohrt: The wire wiggle trick might be why it worked for a while after the engine swap.Thanks

Ken
Although this shop is not real close (probably 30 miles), I am confident they can help.
Mustang Alignment. David Morris is the owner. Has a guy that works for him, Steve Hand, Jim's nephew.
You might call them, see what they say. 1-405-376-4634
They do some incredible stuff in their shop. I trust them, period.
Jeff

Does it just cut out and die or does it spit and shudder than stall. Have any of the garages got it to happen or just the owners? Not just because of their old age but a good description of the problem is helpful. Hot /cold, hot restart,does it restart right away? Does it run ok after it restarts? Some times a light tap on the MAF will stall it out and on the ECU. Also a light tug on wiring harness.
Good Luck these things made you:mad:

Sticking PINTLE in the EGR valve. A shot of carb (or brake) cleaner will set it free ...for a while. EGR valve has to be removed to clean. If it continues to stick after cleaning it will need to be replaced. Went thru this with a 2001 Olds 88. It finally showed a code after checking about 7 times. Don't remember the code I.D.

The lock up converter solenoid could be sticking and would cause a stall when coming to a stop.
iac and egr problems are common. If the egr has a position sensor, then it should set a code. The iac can carbon up and stick. It can be removed and cleaned. Results may vary.
.

Don't know anything about a 2001 Impala and the 3.4L engine.

But I thought this guy's issue with stalling in his 2000 Impala might be useful.

He did a LOT of things until he discovered the problem in his. His threw a code from the beginning of his issue, so your issue may be different.

http://www.gmforum.com/chevrolet-179...g-help-301068/

He also posted about it here where he got some other advice.

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Autom...ssues_P102240/