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-   -   Exhaust Manifold Gasket (https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=798674)

PMD1969 12-09-2016 07:28 PM

Exhaust Manifold Gasket
 
Well the time has come and I am not looking forward to this project. For the first time in its 48 year life my factory OHC motor needs to have the exhaust manifold taken off to replace the gasket. This motor has never been apart and the exhaust manifold has never been removed either.

Last year I started soaking the bolts with PB Blaster at times when it had been driven and then others when it was cold. I wasn't able to get to it last year so now I am looking into getting it done this year.

Any thoughts on getting these bolts out without breaking them or anything else? I don't have air tools so all of this will need to be done with brute force via my gorilla arms. I do have an electric impact wrench but I don't have any faith in it getting the job done. I don't have the money to buy the compressor I want which I know would really help out so it is what it is.

Thoughts?

Jeff Hamlin 12-09-2016 09:05 PM

When I tear down parts cars/engines with hardware in this condition I always soak them as you did/are doing and when I'm ready to attempt removal I use a small plumbing torch to heat the nut/bolt up and then blast it with PB I then tighten it slightly before loosening.
This has worked very well with few casualties.

PMD1969 12-10-2016 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff Hamlin (Post 5666966)
When I tear down parts cars/engines with hardware in this condition I always soak them as you did/are doing and when I'm ready to attempt removal I use a small plumbing torch to heat the nut/bolt up and then blast it with PB I then tighten it slightly before loosening.
This has worked very well with few casualties.

All I have is a MAPP torch. I'm guessing that I won't want to get it cherry red but just get it hot to pop the rust apart?

Jeff Hamlin 12-10-2016 06:35 PM

Yea any small hand held torch will work, I do get them as hot as possible then immediately spray them, this sort of shocks them. Over tightening slightly just helps break the bond.

You may recall that '69 Sprint motor a few years back that sat outside for a couple of years, I used this method and every nut and bolt came loose.

Best of Luck with yours.

66sprint 12-12-2016 04:06 PM

M:

I think your best option is to remove the intake and exhaust together and then separate them once you get it on the bench. Only thing is, it will be pretty heavy.

I think you can get a deep 6 point socket on the flange nuts holding the 2 exhaust pipes to the exhaust manifold. Those may give you a little trouble. The nuts/bolts holding the manifolds to the head should not be too difficult to get loose.

Let me know when you are at that point and I will head your way to lend a hand with the heavy lifting.

PM sent with contact info.

Jeff Hamlin 12-13-2016 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 66sprint (Post 5668114)
M:

I think your best option is to remove the intake and exhaust together and then separate them once you get it on the bench. Only thing is, it will be pretty heavy.

Agree and when re-installing leave the Exhaust to Intake mating bolts loose until after you torque the manifold to head bolts,
then tighten the mating bolts, less likely to have leak issues.

RustFace 12-24-2016 01:33 PM

While we're on the subject of exhaust gaskets, I'm in need of an intake/exhaust gasket as I'm moving to the sprint manifolds, and I can't find a company that sells just that one gasket. Everyone seems to only have entire rebuild kits.

Anyone know where I can get one?

Jeff Hamlin 12-24-2016 06:20 PM

You will need to locate a local dealer for these;
http://www.bestgasket.com/pop_up_pic...tNumber=27026E

http://www.bestgasket.com/

sprinter 2 12-25-2016 12:18 AM

You might try flat out gaskets (877-837-9200) or Marx Parts LLC.(715-652-2405) They both had them at one time, but you will need to call, they don"t list them.

GTOWAGON 12-25-2016 07:16 AM

I have a new best gaskets and a fel pro you can have either one for 10.00 plus the shipping

66sprint6 12-25-2016 02:50 PM

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/p...sket+set,10220

RustFace 12-28-2016 10:51 PM

Hi all. Just to follow up, I called up Egge and they were able to sell me one! Although they only sell the whole kit online, it turns out they're still able to sell the individual gaskets from it. Came out to just over $20 (plus shipping).

Here's their kit https://egge.com/part/bst-1500-rs682g/, and the intake/exhaust gasket was the one posted by Jeff, PN 27026E from BestGasket.com.

PMD1969 01-31-2017 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 66sprint (Post 5668114)
M:

I think your best option is to remove the intake and exhaust together and then separate them once you get it on the bench. Only thing is, it will be pretty heavy.

I think you can get a deep 6 point socket on the flange nuts holding the 2 exhaust pipes to the exhaust manifold. Those may give you a little trouble. The nuts/bolts holding the manifolds to the head should not be too difficult to get loose.

Let me know when you are at that point and I will head your way to lend a hand with the heavy lifting.

PM sent with contact info.

I've been soaking the nuts and threads on those as well as the ones that hold the Y pipe on. All of that is factory installed too and do have the normal rust on them.

PMD1969 01-31-2017 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sprinter 2 (Post 5673166)
You might try flat out gaskets (877-837-9200) or Marx Parts LLC.(715-652-2405) They both had them at one time, but you will need to call, they don"t list them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTOWAGON (Post 5673187)
I have a new best gaskets and a fel pro you can have either one for 10.00 plus the shipping

Appreciate it but I already have a couple steel gaskets and one of the thick gaskets from flat out if they are the ones that created those. Not sure which way I will go since I don't want to do this twice. I can only assume that a factory exhaust gasket should work since that is what had lasted for 45 plus years before.

PMD1969 01-31-2017 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff Hamlin (Post 5668373)
Agree and when re-installing leave the Exhaust to Intake mating bolts loose until after you torque the manifold to head bolts,
then tighten the mating bolts, less likely to have leak issues.

I haven't tested where the leak(s) are coming from so I only assumed that it is the long manifold gasket and not the gasket that mates the tow manifolds together. Is there a way to get a new gasket in between the two manifolds sans removing the manifolds or even loosening them?


It would be ideal to remove the three bolts holding them together and then sliding in a new gasket to solve this problem. If you or anyone else has done this let me know.

Jeff Hamlin 02-01-2017 07:14 AM

I personally think you would not be able to clean the two matting surfaces correctly doing it that way, and likely be doing it again.
It's a PITA but IMO far better to get them off/out for full inspection and proper re-installation.

PMD1969 02-02-2017 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff Hamlin (Post 5691099)
I personally think you would not be able to clean the two matting surfaces correctly doing it that way, and likely be doing it again.
It's a PITA but IMO far better to get them off/out for full inspection and proper re-installation.

I'm not trying to get out of doing the work but rather just the speed of the project and mostly not to touch the original exhaust. The exhaust (not the manifold) is in ok shape but rusty. I fear that when I start to yank and wiggle on things it will come apart and I will end up spending a whole more in the end.

That's all really. I suppose I should have supplied a picture if that would help.

FWIW I have been soaking those stud and nuts on the exhaust at the same time. I am hoping that this has helped in some way.


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