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HPP Honeycomb Wheel Restoration
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I know there is an awful lot of great information on this site regarding wheel restoration. This article was posted elsewhere on the internet but that site is no longer....hope this can help someone down the road.
CLW BTW...I have no idea how to rotate the pages...sorry |
Thanks for posting!
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Thank you!
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Notice the primer HPP is using ... :eek:
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in progress rn...thx
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Ive never seen kindig get a can or sem out. Lmao. Hpp also told up to cut our shakers open to get all the extra HP. �� |
LOL! :rant: :pound:
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Lol :p
Recently I’ve use OER interior dye, it’s for parts I’m selling, it’s still a spay bomb type, CL Resto. |
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LOL... :rolleyes:
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What if the steel wheels underneath the honeycomb are rusty?
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Any recommendations if you have a decent amount of surface rust to deal with under the trim rings? I have a '71 Formula 400 with a build sheet that said it came factory with the Honeycomb wheels. Would like to keep it factory, but the wheels I have need a more serious restoration than what is described here (although, very helpful!!). Any advice from anyone that knows or has done this work? Can the Honeycomb insert be removed and then epoxied back into place? I don't want to "experiment" with any of my wheels, if possible. Thanks!! |
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Yes it’s shiny crap. Good enough to sell at Dayton. I go to auto body paint store to get the good stuff mixed up. Oer is prom SEM GARBAGE |
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I did these with the OER magnesium wheel paint & SEM primer that according to one guy that bashes anyone that uses it is "CL gravel driveway resto" LOL! Been holding up great for about 10 years now and looks like the day I did them. Quote:
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Your finally rite on the wall art crap. Lmao.
No rest, you get quality rest stuff or you buy rattle can CL driveway Resto. |
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I'm also happy with my "driveway Craigs List" resto using OER paint. I actually did the work in my driveway, too. Figure that. Sandblasted the wheels, used two part flexible epoxy to fix the big flaws, lots of sanding - similar to what you'd do for an Endura bumper. Came out good enough for our driver Ventura.
Agree that just because the paint comes in a rattle can and isn't from an auto body supply shop doesn't mean it's not quality. If you have the equipment, space, time and money to go Kindig on your stuff, have at it. Not all of us do. I also agree on finding a better set of wheels if the rust is under the urethane. Post some pics of what you're working with. https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1764696274 https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1764696184 |
Those look great!
Ive also painted rally 2 wheels with good Eastwood & other brands of SPRAY CAN paint, 12+ years on my my car & look like the day I did them. Not everyone has access to paint guns or cares to use them when there are good options for the hobbyist or home resto type. Constant complaining about a brand of paint countless people use with great results or bashing people who use it gets old real quick... |
Personally I miss magazines
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Check out Vice grip garage, he does the CL Resto.
I did my flakes in the 80’s. Used quality paint, they are still nice. If it’s work investing time and money, it’s worth doing rite. You don’t have to go to kindig to use quality paint and do it rite. |
I'll send some pictures tomorrow. Will be helpful to get your advice/confirmation that the wheels I have are worth restoring or not. The car does have a lot of rot in very unfortunate places, so.... A bit of a passion project... :D:eek:
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