electric fuel pump mounting
 

I bought a 6 volt electric fuel pump through my workplace for $30.00. I want to use it to get the motor in my 50 Torpedo running. I may keep it on the car if it works out so can anyone tell me where would be the best place to mount it. It comes with a mounting bracket, it is not a little inline unit. Also, can I use the coil connection on the ignition switch as a power source or is there another source ?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...keyword=e16088

It can be mounted 'most anyplace, but back by the tank and as low as practical is preferred, since those little pumps don't "draw" as well as they "push". For quietness, use a "soft" mounting, and use hose connections rather than metal-to-metal.

Jack,
Thanks for the reply and the good advice. Now, all I need is a good power source.

Nothing wrong with connecting to the coil terminal of the ignition switch; pump probably only draws about 2 amps.

OEMs with electric fuel pumps equip their cars with "roll over" switches that interrupt power to the electric fuel pump when the car is on its side or upside down. You might consider installing one. Not something you'd think might happen to your classic Pontiac, but if you drive it you never know. Didn't have an electric pump in mine, but I was happy I had (and used) the 3 point safety belts.

https://talk.classicparts.com/data/x...jpg?1447956616

Jack, thanks for the reply. I found a lug on the fuse panel that is hot only when the switch is in the on position. I will run a wire from it through an inline fuse to the pump.

Darn it Bill... you know we hate to see that picture of your '57.

Nevertheless, you've got me thinking about adding a rollover switch to my GMC's fuel pumps.

I have been thinking about something. When I turn the key on it sends voltage to the coil and that could cause the points to burn if the car isn't started immediately, correct? If so, wouldn't waiting on the electric pump to move gas to the carb cause a delay that could hurt the points? Would it be better to put the fuel pump on a fuse panel leg that is hot all the time and run the circuit through an on/off switch? That way, I could activate the pump before switching the key on.
But, with my aging mind I am subject to forget to turn the pump off. So, what would be the better option, pump on with the key or through a separate switch?

Actually the "burn" on the points occur when an arc (spark) occurs as the points first open, so if the engine isn't running there shouldn't be a problem.

Thank you. I know there is no such thing as a dumb question but there are dumb people (like me!) who ask.:D I appreciate all your help.

Yeah, it's hard to decide. The electric pump in my antique touring car (put in place of the trouble-prone original vacuum fuel pump) simply has a switch in a lead to the battery. It's convenient to be able to run the pump by itself, but of course I sometimes forget to turn it off (or on). In my pickup, the pump is powered with ignition 'on', but I also put a switch in the pump line, in case I want the ignition 'on' and pump 'off' while working on something electrical under the hood. The electric pump in my Suburban was an easier choice, since it's only used to "prime" the mechanical pump- wired through a momentary switch from the battery.

You would be better off running the pump direct from the battery via a relay. 6v systems are already 'challenged' for spark energy [ compared to a 12v system ], so running the pump from the coil terminal will cause additional voltage drop & reduce the voltage available to the coil.

fyrffytrl.....since I don't drive the car every day, the fuel in the carb tends to evaporate or drain back between uses. I wired my electric pump through a three-way toggle switch under the dash. The switch is the ON-OFF-MOMENTARY ON type. The MOMENTARY ON position is spring loaded. I hold it on to prime the carb bowl, and when released I don't have to worry about it being left on. The other ON position doesn't have to be held to operate the pump. Sort of a "limp home" mode if the mechanical pump were to give up the ghost......John

No need for a relay. The 6v electric pump on my bench right now draws less than 2 amps, which is typical.

With respect Jack,
what I said was correct. 6v ign systems are spark challenged, reason they run 0.025" plug gaps & not 035-040. There was a reason car makers tooled up at great expense to go to 12v systems......


The 6v coil probably draws about 2a running, so running a 2a pump from the coil terminal will double the voltage drop to both components & subtract this amount from the available 6volts. This will be particularly tough on the ign during cranking/starting.

Also, the OP did not state the current draw of his new pump, which may be more than the 2a draw of your pump.

The relay is the best option & leave the coil cct a dedicated cct.

I cannot find the amperage anywhere in the specs for this pump. I hope it will be sufficient for a stock straight 8. Here's a link to the pump listing:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...keyword=e16088

That is a 6v version of the Carter 4070/4594 pump. In 12v form, they draw about 2-4 amp, so could be more for 6v.

Should have added, excellent pump by the way, will last forever.......

I run the 12v version on my GTO. Tried various mounting locations & the quietest spot was behind the driver's side rear wheel, mounted on the frame. There is space to tuck it up out of the way on the GTO. I suspect the wheel deflects a lot of the noise.

Geoff,
Thanks for the reply. I will look into the mounting spot you suggest. Hopefully there will be room on the 50 for it to go there.

Hey Bill I hate seeing that pic of your truck. In new Zealand someone would fix that.