Valve Cover Bolt Torque
 

I recently replaced a leaking stock valve cover gasket. I tried to straighten and flatten the sides, then glued the gasket (Fel-Pro cork) to the cover, Then I put a smear of grease on the gasket surface. I have always just used a nut driver or 1/4" ratchet handle and tightened that to something that felt snug. I've never had any big leaks, but over time they tended to leak.
I've never had an inch-lb torque wrench, but since I do now, I thought I'd see what the service manual called out for torque. My 62 manual calls for 48-80 lb-in. Now that's only approximately 4-7 lb-ft. So I started with my nut driver to snug them down. Then I used the torque wrench. I only got to about 25 lb-in before I stopped, I couldn't bring myself to go more. At that point, I could barely turn them with the nut driver.

Does anyone really use the recommended torque?
Thanks, Les

Never used anything other than feel to snug them down, using either a nut driver or a 1/4" drive ratchet.

I don't know anyone who uses any kind of torque wrench to tighten valve cover bolts.

Me too. It's more important to make sure the flange is nice and flat, and if not hammer it flat before installing. Then, just snug on the bolts.

I've been using rubber gaskets instead of cork, I think they work better plus they're reusable.

If you want to use your inch lb. torque wrench, tighten to 60 in. lbs. That's 5 ft lbs and a 5/16-18 fastener can certainly take that. As said, most just use a nut driver.

Not unusual to have to retighten valve covers with new gaskets after a few heat cycles. Just check them every once in a while.

Jim