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Raising the ceiling/roof
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Hey guys I need your help. Later this year I really want to add a new Corvette to the toy box but the garage is full. Neither the Firebird nor the boat will set outside and no way would a Z06 be left out in the snow.
I have a detached garage that is 28x32. My ceilings are just over 9 foot and I want to put in a 4 post lift. I'm wanting to raise the ceiling height and have been told my best option is to replace the whole roof. Right now I have a conventional truss roof with a 5 pitch and will be going to a 13 pitch with scissor trusses. This will bring me up to 12' ceilings. So far I've been quoted about $4500 for the trusses. As it sets right now the vette and firebird could occupy the same space with 2 inches to spare and it gives me plenty of room to work under the them. The truck would get about 3 feet under it to do oil changes and such. Has anyone gone through this if so what did you do? Do you think $5000 in materials for an extra 3 feet is worth it? I really wish the last owner had been thinking of me when he build this place.. LOL The drawing I made shows how the ceiling (in blue) would open up. |
I'm having a hard time with the amount of $$$ you're looking at compared to what you gain. In addition to the cost of the trusses, you have all new roof sheathing, roofing and siding for the new taller gables... not to mention the labor for it all, if you're not going to do it yourself. Don't forget the cost of a dumpster to get rid of the old roof structure. All of this just to gain a few feet of headroom.
The pricing on those trusses seems pretty high to me, though I haven't priced that style in a long time. I mostly use standard trusses or storage trusses when I use them. I did a garage last year 24X32 and storage trusses only ran me $2150. If it were me, I'd take that money and buy a nice enclosed trailer, that can be used for winter storage and for transporting cars in the summer. It'll cost a whole lot less than your proposed project and add new capabilities. Or you could spend $10K raising the roof. |
Thanks for the input that is exactly what I'm looking for and yeah I was very surprised on the price for the trusses. I have one more call out to a different co. to see what kind of price they can get. I do plan on doing the job myself so that will help on the cost. I do have a metal roof so that can be reused and I'll just have to add some to make up the difference of the new angles. If I do pull the old roof my plan is to take it apart carefully in hopes I can sell the old trusses and recoup some of my money.
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That price is HIGH. My garage is the same size & my trusses were $100 each, they are standard trusses. I have seen a couple of people raise the garage instead of the ceiling. No messing with the roof. Just have to add more garage door panels & re-frame the man door . Here is a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdbV4Kqcjls
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You have a 5 pitch now. Some things to keep in mind.
1. The lift will need to go higher than its named top height to be able to get on the locks, about 4 inches more youll need. 2. You will want the wider and taller 4 post to get a truck under ...............Gregg Smith Equipment in Hudson, NH is cheapest and no tax if you pick it up. 3. I have a 4 post in a 6 pitch and 13 ft ceiling. Works well, not much room on top my bird, probably 5-6, my 2500HD barely fits under it completely. 4. The ceiling... A friend had this situation with bought trusses. He braced and re engineered the trusses in 1/2 his garage to make room for lift to work right. You have the height inside, may as well use it. wouldnt take rocket science to start it and remove the old as you go. re use the ceiling when done. 5. Other options would be to Block up the foundation and then use block bond and raise the Garage. You could put in a new header and lower the doors. Messing with your nice roof seems crazy... Good luck. ! |
I cut the middle out of my trusses and reframed them to make a tray ceiling over the roof part of the car. My ceiling is 10' and when I raise the Firebird to a height that what works for me it's 10" from the original 10', it could go up one more notch there and several under the tray. I put the tray in to work on a truck.
Only issue you'll have is raising the doors all the way with a car up all the way. In reality you only need to raise the door as high as the runners to get another car under. The do make high lift doors that raise it 12" but at 9' you may not be able to. |
Please, whatever you do is NOT cut a roof truss without the truss manufacturer approval....
https://www.askthebuilder.com/can-i-...-roof-trusses/ Especially, in a snow load area.... |
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His might could still be done but yeah, I'd consult someone local first. He just might need to replace his trusses to get the height, or move the doors to the side. None of which is inexpensive. I'd be tempted to raise it to a 2 story if I had to replace the trusses and roof anyway, storage or man cave above. You can see my tray in this picture, I had a Ford Ranger and I'd raise it there so the doghouse would go up into it, the tray doesn't need to be very big. Since these lifts come with Casters I move them from bay to bay depending on what I'm working on or storing |
I would look at wall heightening / framing another 4' say. Jack the roof up and re-use. Be some temp support aspects. End result best. Have seen them jack whole house up to build full tall basements, so anything doable.
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I would build a whole new building... you are gonna be way ahead in the long run...plus, more space for next toy
The money spent on a 4 post and the whole rasing the roof deal will go along way towards another shop Or add on to the one you have. |
I really cant comment on the pricing, as I'm not into construction. I'd be mindful of the door height, as a smaller door will interfere with the car on the top of the lift.
I will say that I have 12ft ceilings, and I have some room to spare with a car on top. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4689/...08e50513_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4516/...a1ea0e35_c.jpg |
How about adding on to your existing garage for what you need? Adding on either side or the rear, if you have the room, is what I'd do. Then you could make the roof as high as you want and not have to change the existing structure. More room all consolidated into one building.
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I bought a 24' barebones enclosed trailer last year for $6100. Put car in trailer, put trailer in pole shed. Dun.
I was gonna add on to my 32x36 garage another 28x24 for $20,000. Figured I could always sell the trailer, never the garage. |
Remove garage doors. Frame the door openings shut temporarily. Hire someone to jack the garage up to the required height. Lay blocks on the existing foundation to the required height. Lower garage back down and attach. Modify temporary garage door framing to allow re-installation of doors down a bit lower. Fix siding. Install lift. Park car.
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^^^ LOL, we must have been typing at the same time.
Could lift the whole thing off the foundation and add 2-3 courses of block. Sill plate is probably bolted to the blocks. Not even touch the roof. |
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You could work some small windows into the mix in the areas above the three doors. |
I would do as they are saying and look into raising the building, I think I would bring in a forms guy and pour on top of the existing foundation though. Also go high enough so that your garage door is not an issue. If you are going to tear off the roof why not stick frame a short wall and re use the existing roof? I guess it comes down to you have a bunch of options, if you have need for a trailer that may be a good way to go, could also pick up a shipping container too. One of the bigger truss manufacturers is up there in Biddeford as well, so you may want to see what they can do for you, I will always go for the attic or storage truss going forward, worth the small extra price.
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$4,500 sounds like a decent deal to me - cheaper than that trailer someone on here mentioned.
I have a garage that's connected to my house - as I learned when I was looking into raising my rafters, it's much more complicated than it seems. I'd need to involve an engineer, etc. |
If you do decide to raise ,add wall height, I would make sure footings are deep enough for frost. It only takes one deep frost to start a crack. Then your efforts would be in vain. If possible,codes etc, build new.
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When I built my garage (36x48) 2.5 story the town made me move the location over, basically on top of a cinder block shed which is now the corner of my building. This shed had to have the second floor removed and then a small 4 ft wall built to take up the space gap, kind of the same situation presented here in a way. Proper research, talk with people you know that do these things and over building what you do are keys to success in my mind.
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