68 Metal dash paint
 

What type of black paint are you using for the metal dash and steering column in a 68 GTO? Thanks

It’s been a number of years but here’s what I used. The Satin Black (T-8) Plastikote Super Enamel had the right sheen and went on smoothly, especially for a rattle can. I was very happy with the results.

I painted my lower dash & column with PPG single stage flatten to 60%. One nice thing about going the route kk68 did, is if you ever need to touch it up you should have a perfect match in the rattle can. rattle can paint has a tendency to blend in easy on touch ups because it doesn't use a harder. While the PPG is a little more resilient & I am happy with the looks, IF I scratch it I am kinda SOL :( .


http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...2&d=1526816365

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...3&d=1526816437

Hey the dash, ash, and glovebox door are my next imminent project, while i R&R the front carpet.

Studied the Plastikote T-8 Satin Black and it appears nice. I do suspect that painting rattle-can Gloss will not come close to the PPG?

Gloss: hit or miss results, so scary
Semi-Gloss: i dunno
T-8 Satin : easy breezy
Flat : no way for the dash

The PPG Omni MTK acrylic urethane is what I used. gets a bit pricey after you buy the reducer, harder & flattening agent, but not ridiculous. I was painting a lot of parts under hood as well. I like mixing my own, because then I have one product for lots of parts. I also used it for the top of the dash, but flattened it to something like 20%. I'd have to check my notes on that.

MTK
http://buyat.ppg.com/RefinishProduct...8-CB102B21FA74

Flattening agent:
http://buyat.ppg.com/RefinishProduct...C-8772E7EEFD7D

Thanks for the replies, probably sticking to the rattle can.

I will be using flat black for the top of the dash and satin black for the lower dash, steering column, ash try etc. Will use SEM satin from spray can since I can more easily control the sheen to match the original look. The top of the dash will get sprayed at the same time I do the cowl and firewall and underside of the hood so I will shoot it with a spray gun most likely.

I used a muted pond-scum green/tan on the dash topside: looks fantastic through the Tinted-Shaded Windshield. A stock (non- black) upper dash color for some interiors. I think research is warranted on upper dash colors.

Gonna tyr Satin Black samples soon

Best 60% gloss black interior spary paint.
 

As far as any year (64-68) GTO that has a black painted metal dash I have good luck over the years using Krylon 12 oz. spray cans. Their # 1613 semi-flat black is awesome.

This post applies to the front of the dash, NOT the top. The top of the metal dash cars was always painted zero gloss.

NOTE: about 5 or 6 years ago they changed the formula available at Retail. ( I used to be able to buy that paint and any Home Improvement store.) Now they sell a retail version and an Industrial version. Weird, both are sold under the same color name and part number.

YOU DO NOT WANT the "new" retail version!!! The best paint is the Industrial version which is what they used to sell everywhere. You have to order the industrial mix thru one of those factory supply catalogs or websites. I ordered a case which is 1/2 dozen 12 oz. cans. Ready to spray. The way you tell between the 2 is the cap. The new retail paint, the top cap cover is dome shaped, almost like a cone. It's crappy paint, the formula has been changed to comply (I am guessing) with some new EPA guideline.

The old version, the cap is like any normal spray paint top cap; the cap is tall and has a flat top. I spray it out using 2 thin coats, never spray it all out with one heavy coat!! Allow some dry time in-between coats. 2 to 3 days, or a week, is fine. It dries to a perfect 60% gloss. Watch out for moisture in the air, if you spray this stuff in humid weather it will blush! I spray in the shade to allow the paint time to "level out."

Peter thanks, Mark...HIS

Thanks Peter, good to know about change. I was a big fan of the Krylon Semi-flat and still have 3-4 cans of the old version. Used a lot on underhood...pulleys, brackets, etc. Also on front and rear bumper brackets, etc..

I think that is the way with a lot of consumer paints nowadays. I went to Lowe's last week while they do have a nice assortment of colors a lot of it is watered down or it's 10 minute instant dry specially made for plastics.

They have certainly changed the ingredients in paint in the past 7 or 8 years to make it safer for the environment. One of the best colors I have ever used a customer from Canada mixed for me. He wanted me to restore a set of gauges for his '67 GTO. The guy was a painter in a body shop. Along with his gauges he mixed and sent me a pint of paint. It was a brand of paint called Sikkens. I had never heard if it before. I think it is popular over in Europe . The color of paint was awesome but the aroma of the fumes was terrible. It was the worst I had ever smelled. I used an air brush to spray it out. I was wearing my best 3M paint mask and the smell from the paint mist, those fumes were so powerful it even got past the filters on my mask!!!

As far as I know Sikkens has always been professional use & not available to the general public. Good Stuff.

With a good respirator that properly fits your face, you should not be able to smell the paint fumes. At least I never have. make sure you cover both inlets and breath in to see that its sealing to your face. Also learned you need to breath in slowly when you test the fit, sometimes breathing in fast will make the mask seal up to your skin.

Iso's are bad news & just about anything with a harder has them. I wear a mask anytime I am sanding too. I didn't many years ago, but thats when I was invincible & made of rubber... ;)

I don't think you mentioned what color?
Black is easy enough to duplicate off the shelf but if you have a factory color other than black, you may want to go with what I did.
I ordered a rattle can from a company... I think it may have been "Color-Rite".... and they matched it using the interior color code of my car. It has held up well over 10~12 years. It was one of the first things I did to my car.
Crappy pic but you get the idea...

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1526921871

Repainted most of the 68 Dash yesterday. Was Tan, now Black ( originally black)
Did Ashtray paint 1st.: Very nice.
Did Glovebox Door paint 2nd: Very nice.
Removed glovebox, kickpanels, Dashpad, Dash.
Painted Right-dash. Nice
Painted Left-dadh. Nice.
:: had to putty work the middle metal for sone small dents.
or would have been done.

PROCESS
400 grit on block.
600 grit on block.
loose 400 & 600 for curves.
JB Weld for middle dash dents:apply by sliding epoxy with backside of small sandpaper piece, acting as a leveler/plane. ( toughest part of job thud far)
compresser air on ashtray and glovebox door befor spray.
cloth for wiping dash surface clean before spray.
Krylon 8823 satin black (cylinder cap with finger dents)

The JB WEld took "forever" to dry-sand. use something else, like a proven body filler.

I'm not in favor of wet-sanding bared metal. so that is why i dry sanded.

Anyhow, the dash is completely painted. Re-assembly sometime soon then the Front carpet goes r&r for the new black front carpet. Back carpet already done nicely.

Any way to determine the paint hardness / softness before buying the rattle can?

68 Dash and dashpad all reinstalled, new black front carpet. Looking sooo much better. Dash metal been Tan since 2006, and now Back to Black!

HIS, I missed your earlier post about the paint hardness. Obviously your way past that now. What I have always done is take a super mild solvent like wax/grease cleaner & rub the paint a little, if nothing comes off on the rag, use a stronger enamel or urethane reducer, & lightly wipe for a second or two. If nothing come off the existing paint, more than likely has a hardener in it. If its a paint with no harder like a rattle can is, the paint mightl come off little with the W/G cleaner & super fast with a solvent.

Post some picts if you can of the new look :)

Garage shot. Can't see crap. gonna need outdoor sunlight to get a real photo.