Who insatlled a richmond in their A-body
 

Im installing a richmond 5speed od in my 65 Tempest and having a little trouble. I have the trans almost all the way in but can’t get it in the pilot bearing. I think i have to cut more of the drivers side tunnel out for the shift linkage so i can move the trans over more to line it up straighter to seat in the pilot bearing. Anyone put a richmond in their gto/ lemans/tempest/ chevelle. How much of the floor did you have To pursued to get it to fit. Any info/ advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Tom Vaught has one in his 64 I believe.Tom

Put one in 64 tempest had to cut the floor alot

Ok. Thanks Rich. I have no problem cutting the floor just didn't want to cut it if I didn’t have to.

The issue with the Doug Nash 5 Speed and the Richmond 5 speed is that the Trans uses the 400 drive shaft yoke and the Nash people put the Trans Mount several inches farther back.

The Nash Trans and most other trans mount with a slight downward angle. The Trans Mount at the Turbo 400 location actually raises the rear of the trans vs a normal Muncie, Saginaw 3 speed, Ford 3 speed, or Turbo 350 trans. Not by a few thousands of an inch, (by almost 3/8 of an inch).

So then you get a India made Rear Trans Mount that is .100" higher vs a stock one and you are almost 1/2" higher in the rear vs a stock Muncie 4 speed deal.

So people like Richie H and others just cut the floor and put the parts together. Do what you want.

I bought a second (used) Trans Crossmember for my car, lowered the rear of the trans to the same angle as the stock 4 speed stuff and had it welded up. I also had the Trans Crossmember "Porches" (Convertible GTO) lengthened so that the crossmember was in the right spot for either the NASH or the Muncie Trans.

I had a custom Driveshaft made for the Turbo 400 HD yoke that fit the 9" rear pig's Yoke Location. It also allowed for the Scatter Shield's 'block saver' thickness so the yoke had the proper depth.

So it is possible to have it done without cutting up the floor any real amount. You just have to fix about 5 or 6 other things with you run non stock parts like I am (Lakewood, Nash, 9", Leonard Long 5 speed Race Shifter).

Hope this helps you understand what Doug Nash and later Richmond Transmissions did for the 5 speed trans. Mine is a HP unit, not a Crash Box.

Tom V.

In basic terms the extra downward length to the 400 trans mount changes the trans main shaft angle (raises it ) so the case hits the floor as well as the trans yoke when used with the factory crossmember trans pad height. The fix is to lower the trans pad height either by making a custom trans crossmember or making a custom trans rear mount that is almost 1/2" less tall so that the trans shaft angle is the same as the Muncie 4 speed.

Tom V.

My "race" version came with Mopar input and out shafts.

Agree, you need that info to determine what yoke you need and how much clearance you will have with that yoke and driveshaft diameter.
As was posted in other threads, the Trans typically is not centered exactly in the stock 64 GTO floor pan hump.

Tom V.

Had to cut floor for shifter and linkage to fit

I ran one for many years, IIRC the highest shift rods would hit the floor pan at the tunnel hump area. Then, if you remove the shifter linkage and try to install, I think the shifter plate (LONG shifter) barely hits the tunnel hump. These were the 2 areas I had to address with a BFH. The crossmember I used the stock one for my 65 and moved it back redrilled mounting holes and did not use the isolators and brackets. Couldn't use because the frame was different at that area.... the height of mount and crossmember.....I dunno, it worked out and the angles were not too far off. I think u get in trouble if you try to lower the trans rear for clearance, then the angles are incorrect and it will vibrate.

Even though I have a Long Shifter, I would not cut up my floor again to run that shifter.
I use the Hurst 5 speed shifter which is fine for my street car these days. Same deal with the 2.75 Ford rear gear ratio. The splits are just about perfect on the street and the rpm is where it needs to be at 75/80 mph in final gear as everyone runs 75/80 in Michigan.

Tom V.

i cut where the shifter comes through the floor cause its back further than the hurst/muncie. Now ill have to cut the drivers side hump for the linkage. hopefully i can get away with just an inch or two and reweld the hump so you wont even notice.. Next day off is Friday then 10 day vaca. hopefully i can get all 3 cars sorted out and runing in the 10 days.. Im starting to get too old for this and im only 36. I have the joints of a 60 year old

I cut the trans mount pad on my xmember and dropped it 3/8" so the angle should be ok. at least thats what Richmond says to do on their install page

I cut the trans mount pad on my xmember and dropped it 3/8" so the angle should be ok. at least thats what Richmond says to do on their install page.

Nothing like taking a perfectly good driving car apart to change the rear and trans that was supose to be a bolt in deal. With the car on jack stands in the garage and your on your back trying to install a 100lb trans by your self at 1230 at night. You stop and say to yourself, why do i do I keep doing this to myself. :noidea:

Agree, That is what I posted in the thread above.
a 3/8" drop (of the pad) should put you very close
to the correct angle for the engine/trans.

I am not a young guy any more so I bought a dedicated trans jack tool to support the weight of the trans while I was under the car.
You still need to get the trans on the Trans cradle of the jack but from that point the only effort is raising the trans by pumping the lever.

This is the one I adapted to my floor jack: $56.00 plus shipping.

https://www.toolsource.com/trans-pum...MaAnnUEALw_wcB

Tom V.

Did you check the fit of the pilot bushing on the input shaft prior to installing it? Probably didn't happen to measure the OD? Newer made bushings are made just slightly larger than spec on the OD and so the ID will close up once it's hammered in.

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk

i did not check cause i left the clutch and bell housing on. just took old sag tranny out. had the muncie and sag in before so theoretically the richmond should slid right in (SHOULD) I was lucky the richmond input shaft was a 10 spline so i didnt have to change the clutch. Was goimg to change it when i put the 455 in over the winter. just wanted to swap the trans and rear and drive it for the summer then swap the motor in the winter, What headache this is turning into..

Do not get discouraged, this is typically normal checks on any installation (when you do it right).
I use a Browell Bellhousing alignment tool to locate my scatter-shield each time I install it.
Hot Rod Mag info on the tool.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hppp-...n-bellhousing/

So many things seem like PIA deals but really are just "doing it right".

Tom V.