Re-torqueing iron heads
 

Does any one know the proper procedure for retorqueing iron heads ? Do I loosing the nuts first or just go over them to make sure they have not loosened up ? Also how often should I check the torque on them ...

Iron heads typically used Bolts from the factory or a double ended thread bolt, like on a battery cable bolt.

Where is this Nuts deal coming from? Are you using studs?

Tom V.

Back the nuts off an 1/8 turn then retorque one at a time. Torque using stud manufacturer torque number.


GTO George

I always completely back out one nut/bolt at a time and re-torque it, following the factory tightening pattern. I used to re-torque a couple of times a year when I used Felpro 1016's on a high compression 400, never lost a gasket.
ps, put a dab of oil under the bolt/nut head or your torque settings will mean nothing

Thanks guys , I am using ARP studs , with cosmetic gaskets , and been chasing a small oil leak on my oil filter , was thinking it might be coming from the head gaskets ....

This is the correct way.


GTO George

One heat cycle and torque them w/o backing anything.... Never had issues with cast iron or aftermarket .. both heads and blocks

My West-Germany torque wrench confirms previous torques and sees usually a need for a dab on the center fastners.




Kris

Shouldn't you work from the center of the head out?

After engine is together start up get to operating temperature then retorque, loosen 1/8 to 1/4 turn let egine cool off completely (next day) then retorque to stud manufacturers torque specs.... center outwards.



GTO George

Don't think you're going to see oil as a result of a head gasket leaking.

Crack in the aluminum oil filter adapter, leaking sending unit for idiot light, or bolts that are too long bottoming out in the block not allowing for gasket to be compressed, are probably the most common oil filter drip causes that I have run into over the years.

You should never loosen all the bolts or nuts in one go, that's just asking for oil or water to get on the gasket surfaces. Loosen and then re-tighten one bolt/nut at a time.

Ditto!


GTO George

That is the method I use as well. The bolt or nut needs to be loose enough to get a smooth rotation of the torque wrench. The wrench needs to be moving to establish the final torque reading. "Checking" an already torqued fastener will only tell you if the fastener has relaxed past the breakaway torque to get it moving. Which is a problem for sure!