Going to buy HF 12k winch Geez Price Increase.
 

Been watching 12k winch. Price from current flyer 599.00. Was 299.00. 9k is 299.00. Now guess I'll get the 9k

Yeah it was priced $299 for awhile. I bought one a month or two ago. Haven’t gotten around to putting it on my truck yet. I hope it works out OK. I couldn’t afford a Warn.

Hey! I just checked the HR website- it shows it at $299 still.

https://www.harborfreight.com/ZXR-12...yABEgIj1_D_BwE

Thanks, just ordered online. Shipping was cheap surprised.

I saw the more expensive one in their ad as well, but I believe it to be a redesigned model as it did not look anything like the normal Badlands winch

Spend the 39.99 or 29.99 on sale for the wireless winch control! Well worth the money.

I have a pair of the 9K versions one on the open trailer & one in the enclosed trailer, I love them & very rarely ever have an issue with them. I did buy the warranty & they replace one once, but I have had them for probably 6 years & transporting is my business, so they don't sit around!

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...closed.614419/

I've had a HF 12K on my car trailer for quite a few years now and it works fine. The first thing you should do though, is to replace the cables that come on it. I think the original cables are crap and only lasted a year or two before they corroded beyond use so I swapped them out for welding cable.

If you're worried about how it looks and/or want to prevent rust, Buy a can of Corrosion X and spray it down once a year.

The circuit breaker setup is kinda cheesy, but it works. It's just 3, 50 amp, auto reset automotive breakers on a bus bar. I didn't like having that big strip of un-insulated bare metal attached to the positive battery post just hanging out there waiting to get shorted so I swapped it out for one of these:
Bussmann CB185-150 150 Amp Type III Circuit Breaker from Amazon.

Since I use several different vehicles to pull the trailer, I got tired of forgetting the remote in one vehicle and not having a way to use the winch without backtracking to get the remote so I added a way to use it with switches on the winch itself. It's an easy mod and all you need is an ON/OFF toggle switch with a safety cover, an (on) OFF (on) switch, and some scrap wire.

The ON/OFF switch is there to cut power to the momentary switch so it doesn't accidentally activate the winch if it gets bumped.
The momentary switch controls the winch in/out.
The mod takes about 20 minutes and has saved me a 20 mile drive when the switch in the remote failed.

***WARNING***
It is NOT recommended to stand in line with the cable when it's under tension in case it breaks so use at you own risk.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Motor-Spo..._132852-XL.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motor-Spo..._132803-XL.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motor-Spo...7910071-XL.jpg

The box bolted on the top is for the wireless remote. It works pretty good, but there is a slight delay from when you push/release the button to when the winch actually activates/de-activates. It's a slight annoyance, but the wireless remote is nice when I'm loading a car by myself and need to steer.

One of the Youtube videos I watched recommends that you replace the grease inside the winch. Mine has been working good for 6-7? years now, but I'll probably open it up, clean out the old crap, and re-grease it sometime this year just in case.

Link to gallery with all pics.

Thanks guys. It said online that it included remote control. I had wireless ordered but canceled when I saw remote control. Unit will go inside my enclosed trailer.

I may be wrong, but I believe the remote they are talking about is a 12 foot wired remote. You will find quickly that is not the most convenient thing!

You can always order the wireless remote later. Watch for $10.00 off coupons.

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...closed.614419/

Yes, I read details closer. A trip to HF for wireless.Coming up. Thanks guys .

Now for you guys experience, what is the best way to pull 2nd gen TA into trailer? I was thinking special hook going into front crossmember hole. So as to keep cable low away from valance and spoiler. Any suggestions? Thanks.

I just had to do this when I sold my 73, I removed the front spoiler to use a winch to haul it on a trailer. No matter where you hook it I'd bet it will damage the spoiler when you're using the winch. :2cents:

That is always an issue!

I transport Lambos', Porsches' New style Vettes, Etc. You just can't winch most vehicles that are on the ground in the front. I drive them all either in or onto the trailers. I have gone to great lengths to make sure the spoilers do not hit on the drive in door, including a power leg on the front of the trailer as well as a couple of extension boards. Of course it is a car trailer, so it already has the drive in door & dove-tail rear. With the open trailer you can realistically winch them on once the front wheels are on the ramps.

On our race cars we have always had a spring loaded door in the middle of the fiberglass front clip & had a small receiver inside on the front frame to accept a piece of square stock with a ring welded on it to hook the winch cable to. I don't think you want to do that to yours though! LOL

God bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...closed.614419/

Thanks for the good advice.

Got it. Shipping was cheap. Got remote also. When you guys power yours do you use separate battery( what brand, cca?) Or just jump from tow vehicle battery? Bought the receiver hitch to slide into my truck receiver. Geez it's getting heavy for old person. I'm thinking keep it on the reciever plate with handles, then easier to slide from trailer,just pins, to truck when needed. Any comments I'll be listening and thinking.

You probably don't want to use my method but here it is anyway!

I run a # 1 or #2 positive battery cable from my trucks dual batteries all the way to the back & have installed a "NASCAR" quick disconnect battery plug (175 amp, I believe they are originally used in marine applications) on the underside of the rear bumper. The negative cable is just a foot or two long attached to the frame in the rear of the truck. I put the relay pack supplied with the winch in the cable under the hood to keep it out of the weather. I then put another NASCAR plug on the trailer. When you have trucks with dual batteries, there is no need for a heavy battery in or on the trailers

Both trucks have this setup to accommodate both trailers (open & enclosed) In the enclosed trailer, those cables also power the lift leg on the front of the trailer, as well as my inverted that is used for my 8ft dual bulb AC lights & my compressor to air up tires. For the open trailer, the winch is in the "V" shaped tool box on the front to keep it out of the weather.

God bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...closed.614419/

I ran out in the shop & took a couple of pics so you could see what I was talking about!

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...closed.614419/

FWIW Bill, those connectors are electric forklift connectors used to detach the battery from the electrical system in the lift truck, and attach to the battery charger when they're in need of a recharge. There are other applications for them of course, but forklifts is where they're used mostly.

I recognized them immediately, as I worked on forklifts for many years.

Good to know, thank you Sir!

I had only seen them in NASCAR applications!

They can be purchased through Summit or NAPA has them as well. There is a blue version that has a different amperage rating, but I had trouble with them, so I recommend the grey ones!

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...closed.614419/

Loading & Unloading Low Cars
 

Today I loaded up this 2004 Porsche GT3 Street Legal Race Car in Fort Lauderdale, Florida.

I called out a rollback to load it into my custom enclosed car hauler that I designed & had built to my specifications.

I actually have been in business since 2006 when I wrote the code for my website.

I actually have been hauling vehicles since 2008 - I have been a member here since 2010.

Because I am an actual business - I never drive a customers car - I winch it in and out of my trailer(s).

You can’t see the clearance underneath or on either side while loading and unloading while sitting on your @ss in a car.

No matter what anyone tells you - climbing in and out of a car also runs the risk and likelihood of damaging the vehicle.

I don’t need my ego boosted at the expense of damaging a vehicle because there is an opportunity to drive it.

I had a good talk w/ the rollback driver and the race car owner - they both liked the barn door design & aluminum ramps.

The rollback operator liked the higher deck because - as you can see - the angle between the rollback deck and the trailer floor is less steep.


http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1583874151


Your vehicle battery is for your vehicle - it is not engineered - designed - to power a 12VDC electric winch.

Be Smart ....

If you are using your electric winch to load and unload your vehicle from your trailer - simply run a 30 amp fused charge line
to the charge wire on your tow vehicle
via the 7 way cord cap to a deep cycle battery inside your trailer next to your electric winch - it constantly trickle charges when connected to your tow vehicle.


Jim

Thanks guys. The winch will be in enclosed trailer 90% of the time. Only on open trailer for short trips. On truck rear, around home for pulling large trees. My truck is 2015 GMC, 2500 but gas so no 2nd battery. Wondering about installing 2nd battery charging by alternator. That installation seems very sound.