Bop seal
 

So i just wanted to give a Big Thanks to Wade at BOP Engineering for teaching me the right way to install the 2 peice seal. 6 or so months ago i bought a 1 peice seal and it leaked really bad. After talking to Wade about it and checking the things he told me to check i found out that it was my blocks fault and not the seals. My cap was the culprit. So rather then try my skills on the 1 piece again i did a 2 piece . Well it leaked. Called Wade and he told my not to sand the end like ive always done and to sand the outside of the seal until i reached his recommened spec's. Now it doesnt leak at all! I rev it to 6500 with 30 pounds of boost with NO vacuum pump. Normally i have a small leak under boost doing it the old way .

So again, Thank You Wade for standing behind your product and walking me through it until i succeeded ..

Great customer service. I had to sand the outside of the 1 piece and was dry as a bone. . Its the only that sealed mine up. The 2 piece and graphite rope seal both leaked.

When you say 'outside' are we talking the outside perimeter or the outer edges or both...if that makes sense...?

Outside perimeter

Thanks

I called Wade and he walked me right through it. I messed up the first one trying to cut little slices out of it. I had to do quite a bit of sanding, wire was showing but I feel good about it sealing up.
Note, talking to Wade he is a few miles from Dan W who passed. He bought a cast Moon valley cover from Dans widow/ It is the exact Moon valley cover I had in my garage for 20 years. I gave it to Dan as a present.
Small world.

Yes. My cap was the tricky part. When i flushed the one side of the seal out in the cap it stuck out .054" . The block stuck out .032". Not much was done to the block side as the cap had to be worked in quite a bit. Took some time . When the block got line bored the cap gets ground down then bored back to size . The groove for the seal doesn't. So it becomes a problem for the seal locating properly. The groove is now shallow making the lip closer and tighter into the crank journal wich is why mine leaked. By sanding the end of the seal it does fit it to spec but thats only if the concentricity is there. Mine wasnt so it became that scrach on my head up until i talked the Wade. Now i understand it and all is well. lol

Hope this helped...

You have to measure the block an caps depth in the seal groove to determine what to do.

It's a flawless seal when installed right!

Sounds like a BOP instructional video would be nice??

I have used maybe 10 of the BOP 2 piece seals with no issues. I even removed one from an engine and stuck it straight in another (which is a no-no) but it worked great also. I'm too chicken to try the two piece because I have had such good luck with the one piece.

Big fan of Wade, by the way.

-Abone.

Typo?

So in regards to the BOP 2 piece seal. How much of an align bore ( or hone) can be done( in thou of inch) before you will get into trouble installing one of these without modifying the seal seat?

Its been aligned bored and honed. I took more off the cap side. Dan did such a good job I have to run a std timing chain. The short ones are not even close to fitting. He just kissed the block.

Sounds ok, but you need to measure the depth of the block and the cap groove to determine how to go about it..

I dont think you're going to get an exact answer for that . You need to measure both the block and cap. That will give you your direction of what to do.

I don't understand why this isn't included in the install instructions. After all many blocks get a align bore or hone !

There is a lot of variation in the seal area of untouched factory blocks. I think that would make it impossible to give the number you would like. They were using the rope seal from the factory. Much more forgiving than a modern lip seal.

Murf


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I understand that . But it should at least be mentioned to look for issues there and perhaps what to look for to avoid a seal leak. After all it is a vital part of a successful install