"Ropeshaft" Replacement Bearings
 

Just read a comment in the Sept/Oct Issue of the Ropeshaft Reader regarding a replacement bearing for the Torquetube Propeller shaft (Ropeshaft) in the 62 and 63 models. FYI, the GM part number is 907193 and the New Departure Hyatt conversion number is Z993L05, and the newer standard conversion number is now shown as a 6005-2RS. Both the NDH Z993L05 and the 6005-2RS can be found on Ebay and various bearing suppliers. Since the specs on all these bearings show them as a "light duty" bearing, I'm guessing they don't see much of a load as used in the torque tube ( mounted in a rubber insulator) or they would have used a much stronger version of this bearing.
JK

Good timing on your posting this. I find that my shaft bearings/transaxle bearings are pretty noisy. Unfortunately, I have no previous experience with these cars to know what is normal. When in neutral, with the clutch out and the shaft spinning, there is a fair amount of noise that is very hard to pinpoint front-to-back, but it seems louder toward the front. Pressing in the clutch and allowing it to stop rotating eliminates the sound. The clutch itself also behaves badly. When I begin to release the clutch pedal from the floor, the clutch begins to engage (pull the car slightly) at about the right position close to the floor, but then I have to continue moving the pedal several inches almost completely to the top before it fully engages. It is very hard to get used to. It makes me wonder if the clutch disc is not perfectly parallel to the flywheel/pressureplate and only the edge is touching initially until I fully release. It is also very prone to chatter.

I know the ropeshaft is in a flexed position in the tube, but I assume it is supposed to be perfectly perpendicular to the engine/flywheel when it meets the engine. If there were wear on the front shaft bearing, could it allow the shaft to flex where it is not aligned with the engine properly? I know the shaft itself does not fully pass through the clutch to the pilot bearing, but there is an intermediate splined shaft that does that.

If I do take this apart to diagnose, it would be foolish not to replace the ropeshaft bearings while in there.

I'm just thinking through this issue before I spend too much time and effort taking it apart. I'm told from someone with good experience that it will not be a fun experience.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

This sounds like a Clutch Release Bearing "Throw out Bearing" problem to me.
If you need a new release bearing it's GM number was 907397 for the 4 cyl. and 907963 for the V-8. Release bearings seem pretty easy to find online. The other bearing is the Clutch Shaft Bearing which is at the opposite end from the pilot bearing (7109). The GM number was 954294 which converts to a 88026 bearing of which there are several on Ebay tonight. As for the torque tube bearing replacement, it might be easiest to pull the engine and have access to the clutch, torque tube, and front Transaxle extension all at once. Just my opinion.
I'm sure there are lots of others to consider.
JK

Pulling the TQ tube and bell housing on my 4 cyc car was one of the hardest thing I ever did on the car.As said I think it's more EZ to pull the engine to get at everything.Tom

I believe you change any bearing when you see them!Too much labor involved.Tom

Agreed!

bearings??
 

It is important to understand that Chiefkey is talking only about the bearing itself that fits into the rubber insulator for the driveshaft. Other than the insulators that Chiefkey went to great expense and effort to reproduce and sell, there are no insulators for the 1963 cars available.

I know that there was only a limited amount of rubber insulators reproduced by Chiefkey and there are very few, if any, still available. He has (some time ago) indicted that he could get more made if sufficient orders merited it.

Anyone contemplating that they may need insulators should contact Chiefkey

FYI... I just sent an email to the guy making the insulators for me and asked him if he could make another dozen or so. Waiting on a response. Will let everyone know as soon as I do.
JK

bushings
 

While you are talking with him you may want to discuss having him make up a run of the sway-bar link rubber bushings. They are not as complicated as the insulators but he would have to build a set of molds which means he would need to make several of them to be worth the effort. Ideally, you could make a deal with AMES or YEAR ONE or PARTS PLACE to have them retail them for you.

Thanks again for the efforts!

Doug...doing that shouldn't be a problem...just need a very good condition used one or a nos example to copy. I've got some used ones, but they're "used" if you know what I mean and might not make for a good reproduction.
JK

I have a customer who would want 2 or 4 of the insulators if that helps in any way.

My same customer needs those as well!

I'm going to go ahead and have some more made.... I'll post here when they're ready. It would be great to make up some of the sway bar link "rubbers" but I need a good one to copy. Someone comes up with one to pattern a mold and we'll get them made.
JK