Changing oil pan 65 GTO
 

Do you have to pull motor or can you raise motor high enough to do it?

Thanks Greg

I’ve always found that unless the cars been sitting for a good number of days without running that for the add time I have to wait for stuff to stop dripping to keep the motor in the car and to put the pan back on so oil does not drop on the new gasket that I would rather spend that time yanking the motor out!
I like working on it in far greater comfort on a engine stand, and then I am always positive I will have no leaks!

have to ...NO
you will need it reasonably high to get the pan back and under the flywheel. If you V notch the piece of 4x4 it will feel MUCH SAFER when jacking up the front of the motor via the pulleys/balancer ;) or HOIST on front "hook loop"
you only need a couple inches UP.

How high do you need to lift the engine to get past flexplate/flywheel with the pan?

Everyone needs to remove a pan with the engine in the car at least once in their life. If you do it a second time you're a really slow learner...

Oil pan
 

Someone on the forum probably knows the details but I believe you can rotate the crank to a certain position that moves the counterweights to the best position for oil pan removal.

Lots and Lots of discussion on this subject on the forum.
Do a search. Most will tell you though that at the end of the day, removing the engine and trans will be quicker and less frustration. If there is a 1/4" of interference or 2" you still will not get the pan off and out unless you can really get the engine high.

Borrow two Pontiac friends, and the 3 of you will have the engine out in a 1/3rd of the time.

Tom V.

Amen!

Plus, then you have to take the front main cap off to get the pan out, you can actually do it quicker/easier removing the engine from the car, than trying to do it in chassis. The thing is to get the engine high enough to clear all the obstacles you already have most everything disconnected to pull the engine anyway.

Yes it's possible to do, no you don't want to live through this experience. As has been mentioned, it's much easier to reseal the pan on an engine stand, than trying to do it upside down in chassis, been there done it, and wouldn't do it again. Plus you have the luxury of taking a shower in motor oil while under the car, something to be avoided, unless you enjoy an experience like this.

If it was a SBC, Olds, or Buick, (I've actually done the 3 other makes in chassis) it's probably easier in chassis, but Pontiac used such a massive oil pan, and the bottom of the engine design is massive on what hangs below the centerline of the engine block compared to the other GM engines it's infinitely much more difficult.

Kent Moore actually made a tool to lift the Pontiac engine in chassis for removal of the oil pan, but I've seen that tool used in a dealership I worked at, and it's not any easier than lifting the engine and blocking it up. It surely didn't make the job any easier by using the specialized tool.

Unless you're a masochist that loves pain, and difficulty, just pull the engine.

2nd gen F-body....you need about 3" of lift on the front of engine...= about 2" at motor mounts....nothing special. You need about 8-10 inch from ground to flywheel.
Yeah it suxs but when you gotta do ...what ya gotta do...with exactly what ya got.....thats what ya do!

Pull you engine.
Tidy up the engine compartment while it is out.
Touch up or repaint the engine.
Make sure nothing else is leaking while engine is out.
Make sure freeze plugs are fairly new, before re-installing engine. Replace if not.
Make dern sure rear main seal is not leaking, or even slightly wet.
Make sure motor mounts are in good condition.
Make sure steering gear has NO leaks or seeps...

My Uncles' Dealership had that Kent-Moore tool and a two post lift so you could drop the chassis and raise the engine using a 4" square wooded post to push the tool/ engine upward to get the pan off. Only did that job twice.

Once due to a oil pan gasket leak/Nylon timing chain gear failure.
The second time was a plugged oil pump screen. A shop had changed the timing gear set but did not get all of the nylon out of the pan because it was trapped on the inlet screen.

Tom V.

I did it 1 time 45 years ago just lifting the engine. NEVER again.

My son had an s10 truck the oil pump relief valve failed. It required pulling the engine of course and had none of that. I cut the bottom of the oil pan off, swapped pump and welded back together. No leaks...BTW thanks again for the scoops.

You are welcome Bill. As you noticed the scoops are much nicer pieces vs the aftermarket
parts, IF their size fits your objectives.

Tom V.

In your case, removing the bottom of the pan to gain access was the right move for you and your son.