rod and piston question
 

waiting on a set of eagle 5140 rods from butler and a set of pistons icon fhr IC9946 the pistons state press or floating with locks and the rods are press pins both .980 do I need a different style rod?

Rods are press-fit, pistons go either way.

As long as press-fit works for you, you're fine. If you want floating pins, you're gonna need different rods, or--maybe--rework the rods you have on order.

"I" would not "wait" for Eagle rods. If you want low-budget Chinese rods, there's a dozen other brands.

Get rods that are bushed for floating pins, pressing pins is the best way to damage your pistons and any shop doing the pressing won’t take responsibility if they damage your pistons.

There’s absolutely zero reason to use pressed pins when you’re buying new rods and your pistons are made for floating pins.

Oh really, I didn’t find many different brands what you recommend, worst case I could just have my original one gone through with Arp bolts ,, not racing at all


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I seen some at summit sum-pon66258h those any good?


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Theoretically, the pressed pin removes heat better from the piston, for inconceivable ping improvement.

The floating pin is nice not only for ease of assembly or mockup but if the pin ever seizes in the piston the rod bushing would still allow the piston to swivel on the rod.

The pressed pin was cheap to manufacture in the millions of units, that would be their main advantage. Floating is the way to go.

Your old cast iron rods aren’t worth reworking, gift them to the scrap man. With the availability of reasonably priced forged rods it makes no financial sense to rebuild iron connecting rods.

Back in the early 1990s I purchased some press pin Crower forged rods to use with the common TRW forged flattop 455 pistons. Back then those rods were $900 and there were very few choices, Bill Miller aluminum and 455 SD rods along with the Crowers were pretty much it.

That engine was short lived and I kept the rods for a future build which included putting bronze bushings in the small end. The rod rebuilder couldn’t handle it correctly so the rods ended up back at Crower. About $300 later I had bushings, so it’s much better to buy them already done, it’s not cheap or easy.

I too was waiting for a rotating assembly from Eagle through Summit. Contacted Eagle and was told they won't have cranks or rods until end of April. Cancelled order and ordered from Ohio crank and received the crank and rods yesterday. BTW their 6.625 H-beam rods come with ARP 2000 bolts.

ohio crank
 

which ones from ohio crank H6625 ?

Yes

did you just torque the rod bolts on the ohio crank rods or stretch gauge? dont have one of those ,,yet

Smokey Yunick talked about floating pins in one of his books.
He liked the idea of the wrist pin being able to spin on the rod AND the piston. If the piston or the rod got bound up, for ANY reason, you'd still have a functioning piston/rod without causing the engine to fail. Of course his engines in the "day" were all out competition racing engines, that were built, not to fail. Smokey was generally the king of power, back in the 50's and 60's...

I haven't used this set yet still machining block but have just used torque method on previous sets with no issues.

Only disadvantage I have seen with floating Pins is poor installation of the parts and
a pin/ lock comes out of the Rod/Piston and does damage to the block.

Proper use of locks and installation of good parts and should be no issue EVER.

Tom V.