Flex Plate Bolts Hit TC
 

I wish I would have inspected this a year ago when I pulled my engine for the first time. My torque converter was hitting my flex plate bolts. I rebuilt my engine and am ready to re install and get it running. I took the TC off to check and see how to address the clearance of the Flex plate bolts when I noticed a lot of large metal shavings in the TC and around the input shaft. What could be going bad from this added pressure to the trans? Bad pump? Is this something I can maybe fix myself? Theres probably no way of flushing out the TC so ill need a new one? The trans was running fine when i pulled the engine but I feel horrible about running a new engine behind a blown tranny especial in the current state of the trans community.
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Did you set the converter gap when you installed the converter?

If not, the converter was probably not engaging deep enough in to the front pump.

I bought a trans specialties convertor years ago that hit like that. I called them and they said in larger units the bop was different. Swapped it out.

When I noticed a lot of large metal shavings in the TC and around the input shaft.

First thing that has to be done now is Transmission, Transmission lines, tranny cooler and torque converter all have to be cleaned. In other words, Transmission has to come apart and be inspected and rebuilt. There are clearances that have to be checked when installing a converter. 1/8" to 3/16" gap between converter and flexplate with converter fully seated in transmission. Pilot on converter has to be checked for engagement. Flexplate bolts checked for interference. Another step over looked is spinning the converter before bolting to flexplate to check for binding in crank.

" a blown tranny especial in the current state of trans community " !!!
Forgive me, I had to say it.

OK, the transmission needs to come apart. Shiny stuff in the fluid is not good. T400s are pretty easy. Loose it good, tight bad.

With the amount of dish that's in the face of that converter where the bolt head marks are it looks like you had the flex plate bolted on the Crank the wrong way , or where you using flywheel bolts to hold the flexplate to the Crank ?

A competent converter rebuild place can cut it open, clean it out, and reweld it. You probably just need to put a grade-8 washer between the converter and the flexplate. Make sure the pilot has sufficient engagement in the crankshaft and the converter has sufficient engagement in the pump. Plenty of good install procedures out there. One should have come with your converter.

It's not that simple as putting a washer between flexplate and converter. Distance has to be measured.

The fix IS that simple. Or it usually is. I know it needs measured. That's why I suggested an installation procedure. I also said the verify engagements. That's usually done by measuring.

I came across a situation like that before. No matter what I did something wasn't right. I started off by using low profile flex plate bolts. Finally pulled the converter and sent it to Midwest to have it corrected (most shops didn't want to touch it because it "wasn't their product"). The guy told me the "geometry" was off, he corrected it and sent it back. Everything fit perfectly after the geometry was fixed.

I spilled some trans fluid lol and I have the transmission off to a guy to be checked out. Let me re-state that this is my first time since buying the car 5 years ago I have taken this engine/trans apart. I measured the amount that those flex plate bolts were crushed and it measures at about .100" So my flex plate was bent around those Flex plate bolts for at least 5 years. Pretty nuts its lasted that long. I'm wondering if this could be a possible cause of my cracked crankshaft.

Anyone ever use an FTI transmission? I see summit has some in stock with an ultrabell on them. Does an ultrabell for a TH400 have the BOP holes in it? Thats what it looks like. Im looking for other options if my trans is going to be an expensive fix and I need this car running and driving in a couple weeks.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fti-th400-4ub

They make short head bolts for that stock ones are big.

I run an FTI Glide, zero issues. Their work is good and customer service is top notch.

Yes, the Ultrabell is drilled for both bolt patterns

Does anyone run a Coan 20320-2 converter in their Ponchos? How do you like it? This is what they recommended and im wondering if its overkill.


http://www.coanracing.com/coa-20320-...per-sprag.html

Don't know enough about your combo. It does bother me when companies call their 258 mm converter a 10" converter. A true 10" uses a more expensive core and has been around for fifty years. The 258 mm is a newer core that is being developed to replace the 10" due to the 10" inch core supply drying up.

They can both be made to work and Coan offers a quality product.

having the same problem with a new Coan converter here. Both factory and ARP flexplate bolts hit the converter. Cant shim it as it is already within specs. so get to send it back and wait for whatever fix it might get

Any chance you could post a few pics of the front and back of the converter? I ordered a 9" inch from them and had the same issue your having and I had to send it back to be revised. It cost me shipping for their mistake. Wasn't happy about that. They had to change the back cover. Thanks.

You should consider calling PTC they can help. Coan is not the company it once was.

I remember that. If I recall correctly they wanted you to pay for their converter not fitting properly but then came to their senses. Did you get an explanation why it didn't fit initially?