Fuel line bead roller?
 

I need to do some custom 3/8" steel fuel line work. Have any of you used this tool and how well did it work?

https://www.grahamtool.com/tube-bead...l-38-12-and-58

I'd really like to rent one, but can't find any available, so I guess I'll buy it and resell it when done.

I know there are inexpensive tools like the Earl's tool, but this looks like a better solution (at a much higher price). I'm not sure you can even use the Earl's tool on steel lines.

Thanks
Old Joe :D

Seems like overkill - I just use the first step of the double flare tool I have to produce a "bubble" type flare on the end of my steel fuel lines, works killer.

That looks like a nice tool. Post results. I'd be interested in it if you resell.

Yep what Omar said. If all you're looking to do is bubble flare the end for hose clamp connections a double flare tool does that.
Just use the fitting for the inverted flare (first step of a double flare) and you're done.

Of course a good double flare tool is about the same price but it's a much needed tool to have in the arsenal.

Yes I have a double flaring tool and have done it that way in the past. What I don't like about doing it that way is the trumpet at the end can create a bit of an indentation internally on the hose as it ages. It just seems that would weaken the hose at that point. As I get older, I like to do things the right way. I've got what are mostly likely my final toy cars so forgive me for not wanting to compromise. It's not that much farther down the road and I'll have to stop playing with cars altogether cause "you can't take them with you".

Could you explain what you mean by "trumpet" ?? Got a picture?

If done correctly with a double flair tool, only using the inverted portion, it leaves a smooth bubble in the tube that is identical to OEM stuff. Depending on how far you clamp it down dictates how large the bubble is going to be, many go too far.

It's actually meant to be clamped beyond the bubble to keep the hose from sliding off and less chance of leakage I guess. Leaving any indentation inside the hose over time would be considered normal and time for hose replacement, which is generally what is done any time it has to be pulled off if it has some age on it.

Yes of course the clamp goes on the other side. I should have called it a bubble. Still, the flaring tool puts the bubble at the end of the line, The part of the hose opposite the clamp side of the bubble is not supported internally by the metal line. It will therefore shrink on that side as it ages with nothing limiting shrinkage. It creates a weak point over time. As I said, I’ve done it your way and it works. Now I would like to try putting the bubble where the pro line benders do it.

I asked a question about a tool and no-one answered it directly, but I do appreciate alternate dialog when I have time.

So, after I sent my last reply, I remembered that I had a brand new full length fuel line in the garage for my Firebird that I bought about 8 years ago, though it was never used. It did have the bubble at the very end of it.

What I've done with the first step of the double flare setup is to only go part way with it. You can put a smaller bead on it that way. Works best if the part of the tool that goes into the tube (can't remember what it's called) fits with as little clearance as possible.

Pony up and get the master cool flair tool. I cringed buying because of the lack of use but every time it comes out it has saved my bacon


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Yep, I have the version of this tool sold by Eastwood. Makes life so much easier, and it's a great tool to have in one's arsenal. I borrowed one from a friend a number of years ago and knew that I had to get one of my own. Can flare all types of fuel ad brake lines so easily. There's no going back once you've used this type of tool.