66 convertible quarter panel vs. hardtop QP
 

For a 66 convertible GTO, there are no convertible quarter panels available. So I ordered a HT quarter panel with the understanding that it will need to be modified in order to fit. Is there anything other than cutting that needs to be done? The gentleman that took my order at Ames warned me several times that major modifications will need to be done in order to make it fit. I originally bought a 66 skin, but it is really a terrible stamping and had I known it was as bad as it was, I would have looked for an alternative. So everything I have read about the full quarter is that it is much closer to OEM and is much more usable. Is there any differences between the HT and convertible other than the sail panel? The way he was repeatedly warning me about the needed modifications has me a bit worried that it might be something other than just simple cutting needed.

Following along. I have a 66 chevelle convertible that will need the same. I see the same in the chevy cats. They do not have conv. quarters but say to use a hardtop and cut to fit. Curious if anyone has done so.

did you check with dynacorn?

Regarding the gto quarter, they only have the HT. I can't imagine the quarter being any different other than the sail panel. Wouldn't make sense for GM to have made them different.

Convertible quarters do have a different shape where they meet the top, they’re not simply hardtop quarters with the sail panels cut off unfortunately for those undertaking a restoration. All hardtop quarters will need at least some professional reworking to be used on a convertible body.

The convertible cars were sold in enough volume to justify he expense of making certain dedicated body panels back in the day.

Even the inexpensive VW beetle convertible had almost no main body components shared with the beetle sedan. Convertibles had taller doors and roll up rear side windows (unlike the sedan with fixed windows). Only the 4 fenders and front trunk interchanged with the sedan, the engine cover had cooling slots where the sedan cover (up until 1970) had no slots.

On convertible bodies which were built by Karmann there were no engine cooling slots in the body below the rear window like a sedan, hence the slotted engine covers. Every single piece of window glass was convertible (Kabriolet) specific as well.

Many auto manufacturers went to great lengths to make special convertible body components, at least on most American cars they were able to share almost every body component with their hardtop cousins.

My plan is to use it much like I was going to use the skin. Cut below the body line from the jamb to the tail panel and weld it in. So really nothing on the top part of the quarter, that will be the original panel. I know it is not ideal with such a long weld line, but my options are limited. At least with the full quarter, I am hopeful that things will line up and look correct. The skin wasn't even close.

As long as you take your time with the weld and not overheat things you should be ok. Good to know about the skin. I thought about going that route as well but I think I will just get quarters instead.

Use as much of the original panel as possible. You have a good plan going below the body line. Might consider using a pro body man with access to a planishing tool and have him take the full quarter off before doing the cutting/welding. Might seem like MORE work that way, but better results in the end. Ask me how I know!

I can definitely see how this would most likely work better, but hopefully if I just take my time I'll end up with a good repair. When I first got the car, no body guy wanted to deal with it because it was a roller and needed so much work. So I've done all the body work myself so far. It's still a roller, but slowly getting there...

Hats off and commendations to you!

Not having a convertible, I wonder how much work it would be to remove the entire quarter before doing the repair? Especially if you need to replace the rear tail panel or deck panel or wheelhouse(s) anyway?

I wish I had done this on my hardtop because from what I recollect, it was extremely hard to get to the welds from the inside because of the inner wheelhouse and other structural components getting in the way.

Either way, one tip is to use aluminum strips as heat sinks behind the weld (bent to have the same contours as the panel). The aluminum strips would have to be held in place with deep vise grip clamps (or metal duct tape as an alternative to the clamps).