Vacuum pumps
 

My first time with a V pump,
How long does it take to show up on a gauge ?
Started my engine for the first time, about 30 seconds. Shut it down for a small leak in a trans cooler line.
I have a analog gauge on the opposite valve cover the V pump is hooked up to.
Never did see it read on the gauge. How long does it take. Moroso 3 vane pump.
Thanks for any help.

If setup properly it will very quickly.

Mine showed vacuum pretty quick. I'm guessing 5-10 seconds. Had to adjust the regulator valve to get it where I wanted it.

Street cars don’t need them They have pcv for that

Disagree. Every car benefits from vacuum pumps

Its pump gas, sort of right now. Will it ever see the street ? Maybe .
The engine has back cut 1/16" rings with spacers behind them so a V pump is on the engine.
But as I look around at high end street engines you see plenty of V pumps.

We had the Moroso pump on the Grocery Getter and had active data on crankcase vacuum. After sitting for awhile, the vanes would get stuck and wouldn't pull vacuum until the first time I revved it during warmup. Once we learned the pattern, no big deal.

Eric

Thanks, Moroso says to add a tablespoon of oil to new pumps. I will give it a shot.
Have not revved the engine at all yet.
The cam does not sound as lumpy as my old UD cam. But its on a 112 vs a 106 on the UD.
Timing might be a bit retarded. I static timed the points @ 7 deg with a 12V test light, old school !. Fired right up but have not put a light on it yet.

OK, where is the regulator ? My setup came in a box from a member so I know I have not touched it. If I even have one.

I have a GZ pump. Regulator is screwed into the pump

Thanks Scott. Not seeing something like that on mine and the online instructions do not show it either.
I am sure they regulate it some way.
This engine has 100lbs oil pressure, quite high. I have 30WT Brad Penn in it with a qt of Lucas so its pretty thick cold.
I just ordered some Royal Purple 10-30 brake in oil and I will put it in without Lucas and see what that gets me.

Here is mine a GZ on the IA/Camaro

The vanes are a pretty close fit in their slots. Once they're soaked in oil, it's easy for them to sort-of get glued into a position while at rest. A little centrifugal force and all is right with the world.

Eric

I called Moroso and they have a great tech line. I was told to pull the belt off and listen for clicking which I did while on the phone. It clicked slightly. Then was told to make sure the belts would just about come off by hand under tension as the bearing will go out if tight. Then pull the intake hose off and spray some carb cleaner in and fire it up. Then put some oil in and start the engine.
I did start to see the needle move but the engine has not been past 2500 RPM yet.
Sounds better every time I start it.
But........... starting to see a little oil shine at the rear main. None has dripped out yet. Hopefully with the V pump now working it won't be much of a issue.
We will see but this engine was a royal pain to get to this point. From the 3 piece headers, merge collectors with downturns and the mid plate it took a long time.
It should get easier the more I take the engine in and out just do not want to do it for at least a year.
10-30 should be here Thursday and I will se what that does to my oil pressure.
BTW, Moroso does sell a regulator for this pump for 188$ and a rebuild kit for 165 $

Make sure the engine is totally sealed. Dipstick capped off..no vents. It may take a few seconds and rpms to build idle vacuum.

Having failed mine at the last event (pitched the drive belt and mandrel, not necessarily in that order) I can say the vacuum pump is worth 0.15 to 0.20 reduction in ET for me.

K

I admire your optimism.

;)

[I've had my (fresh) motor out twice and the trans out once since May. This year has been quite the slog.

They should call it slog racing. Then you would have to change your handle to "Slogncar"].

K

I am starting to build a little vacuum now. I had one hose to the pump not completely tight. The dipstick is a locking Lokar deal that goes into the side of the oil pan. Stock one is plugged off, splayed caps would not allow it.
The engine has only ran a couple minutes, have not even ran the valves yet.
10-30 will be here tomorrow and I will inspect-clean the K&P filter. put the new oil in and see what the pressure is. Let her fully warm up and run the valves.
With these headers the K&P was the only filter that would fit. I could not even use the short Wix filter.
Its either the K&P or a remote. I have had the big Moroso adapter for the long truck filter on the shelf for years.
The engine is going to pull hard. One more race this year, night race so I have to take a day off but I want to break the rings in as soon as I can.

I drained the Brad Penn 30 WT with a qt of regular Lucas and put in some Royal Purple 10-30 synthetic break in oil with a 1/2 qt of synthetic Lucas.
Oil pressure dropped to 80lbs and went to 75lbs after running a couple minutes.
Engine pulls 6 in of vacuum at idle now.
The K&P oil filter was almost spotless.
I cleaned the rear main area and added some Ultra gray around and put 2 shop vacs on the valve covers while it dried.
No leaks so far.

My brother-in-law works for Lucas Oil as a chemist, one of his jobs is developing oil for the Childress race team which they sponsor. Anyhow he tells me that their oil stabilizer is what he calls "snake oil" along with other additives they sell. He says they make great oil but some of their OTS additives are snake oil.