Brush on engine paint?
 

I was reading a thread about a week back where someone was impressed with a type of brush on engine paint they used. It might have been a different forum, but I could swear it was this one. I absolutely can’t find it doing a search.
Ring a bell for anyone?

Por 15 makes a Brush on engine paint. Good stuff, but careful if you have antifreeze leak, it stains the paint. I know, Don't ask.
https://por15.com/collections/all/pr...39607021633703

Yes!
I found the thread over on the H.A.M.B., and it was POR 15

VHT makes a high temp spray on satin clear you could apply over that POR paint to stop that staining.

Ugh. Unfortunately, this is for my ‘62 Mercury engine, so needs to be semi gloss black. The POR engine paint in black is gloss only. I think that would look a little weird.
Reason for brush on is that up here in the north, it’s kinda hard to spray indoors in the winter. And sure don’t feel like constructing a tent to paint in in my shop.
I’ll keep searching for a brush on.
Thanks guys

Possibly check out Bill Hirsch engine paints. I believe they sell quarts, maybe even gallons. Not that you would need that much. Lol

I have used Bill Hirsch Pontiac Metallic Blue on a few engines....brushed on. I like it. It settles well on the cast iron with no brush marks, and I like being able to work it into every nook and cranny to ensure coverage. On smooth steel like the oil pan it will leave a trace of brush marks but not enough to bother me. No paint failures after ten years except some mild discoloration on the exhaust ports.

Brushed on Bill Hirsh

Find someone that mixes enamel paint for cars. They can look at paint formulas to see how much flatening agent is needed to turn gloss black into semi-gloss, satin or flat.

Clay

Finding Durable PMD Blue paint has been a big deal for decades. All the PMD Blue metallic seems sensitive to antifreeze, brittle if sprayed thick or hot-oil contact, not bonding to primer if sprayed thick or hot-oil, and exhaust burn, and Gasoline stains.

The best paint i had for durability was Martin Senour " Johnson Outboard Green". It looked like an oil-aged PMD Blue metallic. Or exactly like the 1968 Paint batch on some Pontiac V8s. The paint was impervious to antifreeze, gas, and oil. Didn't peel.

Buut it seemed discontinued or just not on-shelf. Formulas probably changed across the board.

The Bill Hirsch engine paint sounds promising, and wonder what you get if PMD Blue is sprayed thin on a tacky Bill Hirsch Paint. Blending paints that way has been a rewarding try for me on Rims.

Brush on paint still has an odor, not as bad as spray paint, but still enough where you have to vent.

I just shot some heads and a valley pan in the garage. I put a piece of cardboard (old boxes) on the floor, and an open box on it's side, get most of the item being sprayed in the box. It prevented any mist from going airborne, but of course, still have the vapor.

It let it setup, about 2 hours, then opened the garage door to vent. Then closed it and let the garage heat up again.

I had the parts indoors overnight, paint too, and only took them out into the garage when I was ready to spray.

It works, but had paint-boogers, and probably lost a few brain cells. Still not as bad as it could have been though. Just part of hot-rodding.


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I used KBS Motor Coater. Supposedly one of the head guys from POR 15 left to start this company. Either way works nice. I thin it and spray on tins (oil pan, valve covers, etc) but it’s made to be brushed on too but haven’t tried it that way.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbtU...=1&app=desktop

Brush on engine paint?
 

One trick I use for painting in the garage during cold weather is to put a space heater near the object that I’m painting and just let it warm to between 65-75 degrees. While it’s warming up, soak your spray can in hot water for 5-10 minutes. The paint will spray smoothly without spatter and adhere without issue just like a warm summer day. Just be sure to turn the space heater off (or any other heat sources for that matter) prior to spraying, including if you have a gas water heater in the garage area. Also dry the paint can off well and wrap it in some paper towels so you don’t drip water on the project.


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I'd rather brush on the paint, since I've always noticed brush on paint adheres better. And engines are perfect for it since the texture of the casting will conceal brush strokes.

As your looking for a Semi gloss Black I would try the standard POR 15 semi gloss black paint. It is meant to go over rust but on an engine as rough as the casting is it should adhere well. I’ve seen it used in this way in the past and it holds up well as long as you’re not doing the exhaust manifolds. Trick for any of the areas that see allot of heat is a thin coat..

Thanks everyone for the suggestions

After all the suggestions, I decided to keep it simple. Went with Rustoleum. I didn’t have to wait to have it shipped, it’s fairly cheap, and if I don’t like it, I sand blast it off and start over with something else, but doubt that will be the case.
The block and heads were tanked, so are bare metal. Oil pan I just got done sand blasting, so figured I’d start there. Intake and timing cover have yet to be cleaned up.
Anyway after a coat of primer last night, I hit with a light coat of paint tonight. Flowed out decent, but not as well as POR from what I remember, been awhile since I used it.
Got it sitting in my shop washroom as I keep that a little warmer because the well and pump are in there.

Is that stuff for high heat? If not, it might just flake off after a couple heat cycles.


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Rustoleum does make an engine paint now, fyi...


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I couldn’t find any in semi gloss. Just flat and gloss.