Engine Oil Additives
 

This video may change your mind about certain oil additives. The part I like the most about this video is when he said, if you need an oil additive then you have the wrong oil.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAGT5inQScE

These videos are a dime a dozen!! This boob says one thing and I can find many others that will debunk his findings!! Personal choice is the real key here as is what oil to use brand/weight and whether to add zddp or not!!!

i just wanna know what is going on in someone's life when they have 30 minutes to watch a video on oil additives... with three kids, a puppy, a crazy wife and a hot rod i barely have time to wipe my ass thoroughly!!!

The invisible boogie man, Can't be proven or disproven.

Lucas stop leak actually did what it advertised.

If one watches enough Roadkill and Roadkill Garage episodes…..one will learn that “additives” don’t do much of anything. Lol

Some additives do what they claim but proper maintenance will eliminate the need for most of them except for maybe fuel cleaners.

Witnessed both Seafoam and Marvel Mystery oil unstick lifters....because the oil wasn't changed regularly. Same goes for stuck rings.

Seen both Lucas Transmission Fix and Dr Tranny Shudder Fixx (yes, 2 xx's) fix a slipping transmission because the fluid wasn't changed enough (or at all) or the vehicle was driven very hard and the clutches were worn.

Seen head gasket sealers work (NEVER use them on an engine you care about!) because the coolant wasn't changed regularly or the engine was overheated...because the coolant wasn't changed on a regular basis.

Seen Engine Restore curtail and eliminate oil consumption due to worn cylinders from infrequent oil changes. Also seen it work on engines with very high mileage that were properly cared for.

I've used seafoam in small engine equipment I acquired that were misfiring due to clogged carbs but still ran...kind of. Pour a hefty amount in the gas tank and the engine runs butter smooth 5-20 minutes later. 100% successful on a shredder, weed eater (free), and 2 rototillers (the Honda rototiller was free, the rear tine was dirt cheap). Saved me time and money rebuild carbs or buying a Chinnese knockoff and swapping it out.

29 years ago, had a buddy with a Toyota truck (high mileage) that would grind a bit in 2nd gear when cold. Told him to try some Duralube and see what happens. Fixed the problem. He still has that truck.

Lucas makes a great racing oil and they do recommend their additive to it also.
I have ran Lucas in everything for decades. Never blown anything up.
That said, I now consider Shaeffers to be the best oil on earth.
And will run it plain.
Why is it the best ?
They are getting 1,000,000+ miles out of gas and diesel engines and they still run great on tear down.
And, people are getting 5-7 more horsepower just running that oil on dyno tests vs the same weight Mobil 1.
Pretty much means they are the best.

I run both Lucas oil additive and Lucas fuel treatment in everything here and have for decades.

Couldn't tell if the oil treatment helps but I've had zero issues with any engines I use it in.

I know for sure the fuel treatment works as I get more MPG's in my Nissan Xterra and you can notice the improvement in power vs not using it.

I've also owned quite a few diesel powered trucks and make up my own mixture of Lucas fuel treatment and 2 stroke engine oil. They all get a few ounces at every fill-up and never in all the years and thousands of miles of use did I have one single fuel pump, injector or other fuel system related issue with any of them.

Matter of fact if you own a Duramax with the CP4 pump, or a Ford or Dodge diesel that used that pump you need to be using a lubricant in the fuel. CP4 pumps are actually better than the CP3's, and they have next to zero issues with them in Countries that didn't remove everything from the diesel fuel, but here in the USA catastrophic CP4 pump failures are a HUGE problem, especially for LML Duramax engines.......FWIW.....

Is the Lucas upper cylinder lubricant the treatment that your using cliff ?

Oil is more religion than science. Yeah the wrong oil or viscosity can certainly screw you, but there is little difference between optimal and good enough.

I know a guy that's had multiple ~700hp big block Chevy engines, doing drag and drives, buys the cheapest walmart shelf oil, changes his oil regularly, periodically sends oil in for analysis and it always comes back good. Put tens and tens and tens of thousands of miles on those engines.

Me, I adjust viscosity to see the oil pressures I like while driving, and put a zddp additive in my non-roller engines, run the engines hot enough to burn off moisture and any fuel that got by the rings, then change the oil regularly enough it doesn't sludge up.

I am running VR1 right now because of the flat tapper cam. I hate oil discussions in general but I would like to see a round table on this because 10-30 to me is thin and 20-50 puts me damn near 100 pounds cold. If I could put 15-40 in with a bottle of Lucas additive and feel secure both I and my wallet would be happy as hell.

Same here!! Tried Lucas fuel treatment a couple months ago. In my 08 5.7 hemi and 91 2.5 Shadow. Both had noticeable improvements in MPG and power. I was actually amazed. Been using Seafoam for years, never noticed anything really with that. Lucas is a different story for sure

Lucas makes good products! Their injector cleaner is the only one I’ll use.

In my roller liftered Buick I usually run 4 quarts 10w-30 and one 20w-50. Maybe two quarts 20w-50 when doing a drag and drive where the oil gets extra hot and I'm also harder on the engine. In my OHC, because there are no spinning lifters or rollers, run 4 qts 10w-30 and 1 Lucas Oil Stabilizer, which thickens it up plenty.

I like to see ~40psi at 2,500 rpm, which is basically cruising speed, that's what I adjust too. If I see that 40psi cruising, it'll be at 60psi by 4,000rpm which is plenty. I've not worried about 800rpm pressure because I have a background in Buick's :p

The same thing can be accomplished with 2 cycle oil with TcW3 that you get with Lucas fuel treatment for half the cost.

The biggest difference is Lucas really isn't overly critical how much you dump in the tank and you actually use more of it per gallon according to their instructions.
The 2 cycle oil only needs 1 ounce per 5 gallons of gas. So a very small amount that needs to be measured. You get the same end result. Better mpg, lubricates the top of the engine, valves, seats, upper cylinders etc... and it's way cheaper. A gallon will treat up to 600 gallons of fuel.

I've been using that in everything for about 25 years.

Only way to know if your getting the protection you want, or to compare what you're using vs switching to something else is do an oil analysis. It tells you what you're asking, no one here can tell you any better.

Do an oil analysis on what you currently use and when you're satisfied your results are consistent make the switch, run it for the same amount of miles and do another analysis. If it comes back as good and it's saving you money then you have your answer.

Have you considered Driven GP1 15/40?

https://drivenracingoil.com/i-304977...mance-oil.html

2qts. of 10w30 and 3qts. of the 20w50 would work using VR1 or 50/50 would work also. As temps change outside you could mix to whatever ratio works for you.

I dumped in a bottle of Rislone Engine Treatment concentrate and drove 100 miles before an oil change a few weeks ago. Right at startup after I dumped the bottle in and even after changing the oil, my sticky lifter doesn't happen nearly as often on cold start up and my valvetrain quieted down a lot. It definitely did something.