Engine Hoist Load Leveler
 

Good day all,

I've been asked to help a friend out removing a motor and trans from a first gen f-body (sadly not a Pontiac). We're going to pull a 454/TH400 then reinstall 427/4L80e.

When I removed my engine/trans last year I purchased a load leveler from H.F. . I got what I paid for but it served the purpose. It survived one removal and barely the subsequent install. Upon removal the unit tilted down very nicely, the engine/trans came out like butter but then when trying to take the angle out and level things back out turned into a real pain. The install went even worse because the jack screw simply couldn't lift/tilt the heavy load of the transmission. In concept the load leveler is definitely the way to go and I would do it again if I could find a better tool.

I've suggested a load leveler to my buddy but I'm trying to steer him away from the H.F. device. Has anyone here purchased a load leveler that they've been happy with? Is my expectation to be able to tilt engine/trans back to level too much for these things?

Thoughts, suggestions, recommendations? Thank you for taking the time to consider my questions.

i have no first hand experience with a HF leveler, mine I got with my hoist when I bought it at costco about twenty years ago;
In theory these are fantastic, in practice, they really need to be installed roughly at the center for the load of the item being moved - otherwise trying to crank it where you are lifting up the heavy end - doesn't really work.

I have used my costco one a crap-ton, and have learned to get it positioned well to start...

I recently helped a friend put a 455 in his bird w one of these load levelers it was well
Made and helped A Lot

They are very expensive but he said he picked his up
Used so I will Be on the look Out
I have a larin similar to the hf and it's pretty
Good but this is better

Super easy no stress one man job with the right tool. :)

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...postcount=1691

After you use the Mac’s Pivot Plate you’ll never go back to the load leveler, no matter how much grease you put on the threads. I’ve done it solo using my own home-built load leveler but this thing works 10 times better.

I definitely greased the threads on my pivot plate, which goes without saying.

Picked it up back in 2017 at a bargain price from an obscure online store called '21 Motorsports' for $147 with free shipping, this includes saving 5% using the discount code they provided.

Double the price of a decent load leveler but more than worth it for the ease of use, saves you time and aggravation.

With the Max pivot I was able to pull and replace engine by myself. Well worth having. Super easy pulled with 4 speed attached

If you're talking about the 3/4 ton one wiith the hex head ends on it, DO NOT use a impact wrench on it. The same goes for the bolt style internal coil spring compressors. The soft alloy that the threaded parts are made from (likely # 2 hardness chinesium) rolls the threads over when you use an impact wrench on either tool.

This does 2 things, it makes the threads eventually fail, and it makes them bind up. Idealy this should have an Acme machine thread screw, and nut to perform well The Acme thread has square threads, rather than the pointed conventional fastener thread..

So yes you should lube the threads, but if you already used a impact on it, likely they are destroyed.

Most every leveler sold on the internet looks the same as the HF one, except for the OTC brand. OTC has been known to make better quality specialty tools fo decades, so they sell from about $90 and up, depending upon who is selling them.

Link to OTC leveler: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Engine-Lo...89846611&psc=1

If all else fails a ratchet strap from the suspending chain to the rear of the engine will also work.

Myself, I quit pulling engines, and transmissions as a unit when I started wrenching for a living. Removing/installing each part seperately has a much better outcome that trying to wrestle both units into a chassis, especially when you're trying to do it with one man. It's much easier to get the mounts to align so you can get bolts in when the engine doesn't have all that unwieldly weight hanging off the rear.

FWIW, the 4L80E is about 50 lbs heavier than a T400 making the struggle even harder, and it fits into the transmission tunnel much tighter too.

They were installed as a unit at the factory, but the body was off of the chassis.

:2cents:

There's one thing I know for sure. I would never use 4-5/16" bolt to hold my engine and tranny to remove or install. Hell, I wouldn't even use it with just the engine. Just me.

All-iron 421 with a 13” converter/TH350 all hanging from four 5/16” carb studs, small base Rochester 2-barrel at that.

No problem. :thumbup:

Nothing to fear. :bolt:

Thanks all, some super suggestions. I thank you all very much.

The issue with load levelers is the crank interferes with the hoist boom/chain at certain angles. You can’t crank it to change the angle of the load again depending on the angle. Also firewall clearance is a problem as well.

Load levelers are much better than having to screw around trying to move your chain attachment point back and forth but they do have their difficulties and limitations.

Get the Mac’s Pivot Plate, you won’t regret it.

I’ve had a Torin leveler for over 10 years and have done numerous engine/trans removals/installs by myself without issue. Not sure if this is the same quality as mine - I paid the same price…

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I have a load leveler I bought over 20 years ago don't know the brand but have used it many times over the years mostly pulling and installing Pontiac engine trans together. I keep it lubed up real good it still works like new. Now that I have a lift and a tall style transmission jack I pull and install the engine and trans separately.

Ive used the Mac tool load leveler posted in post #4 for years and countless removal/installs.
All iron Y blocks with iron transmissions attached in and out no problem with 5/16 bolts. BBC's with 4L80E's behind them, no problem. It is the best engine tilter made bar none. Makes a full dressed engine trans install a one man job and has saved me a ton of time and headache.

I have never used a load leveler when pulling or installing engines or engine/trans together, I may not have done as many as some on here but have pulled & installed a lot over the years of my own cars or friends cars, but also pulled a bunch over the last 10-15 years parting out close to 50 2nd gen F-bodies.

For a long time I just used good chains bolted to the front/rear head bolts, engines went in/out with no hassle, just basic manipulation by hand as it lifted or dropped in. Now I use the standard lifting plate with the 3 holes bolted to the intake, & yes 4- 5/16 bolts will hold any pontiac engine, even with a TH400 bolted to it, the plate has 3 holes that will allow the engine to be tilted as needed, Ive always just used the center hole.

9 out of 10 of these were done by myself, some I had a helper just for a 2nd set of eyes. As with most things, there are better ways that usually cost more money, but when something works or you dont have the means of using better tools, like when youre a broke kid or working at a friends house with limited tools, you use what you have & make it work, but Im sure a leveler would be nice.

You want a load-leveler? Come and get mine. It was included with a used engine hoist I bought. I've never used it.

Load-levelers are a waste of vertical height, and the cheap junk engine hoists they're typically used with don't have any vertical height to spare since the booms are far too short in order to not overload the silly-small hydraulic rams and thin steel structure.

I bolt a 3/8 chain from the back of one cylinder head to the front of the other, and then bolt the chain around the lifting hook after making a couple of test-pulls to get the balance right. Saves nearly a foot of vertical height, more if the carb and distributor are removed.

Load-levelers are a waste of vertical height, and the cheap junk engine hoists they're typically used with don't have any vertical height to spare since the booms are far too short in order to not overload the silly-small hydraulic rams and thin steel structure

I agree and the problem I have with mine.

And…..the Mac’s tool solves the problem.

You get what you pay for with this one. :thumbup:

I won’t do an engine or engine/trans installation or removal without one now that I have one, it’s never been this simple and easy.

Mine is similar to the Big Red/Torin one in grivera's post. I've done a few outs/ins with it. I did not lube the threads. I will do that the next time. For speed I've always used an impact on it. The only problem I had was the drive nut was eating into the thread support bracket. I just installed a heavy washer between the nut and bracket on each end. I took the handle off so I can drive it from either end. The two problems which have already been stated is the reduced lift travel and once a certain height is achieved the leveler contacts the hoist beam.

Exactly!