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1965 Stock GTO Breaks 13.99 :--)
I've been trying to figure out how to get my stock 1965 GTO to go 13.99 for quite some time. Tuning the best I can and following the 1965 NHRA Rules, I finally got this GTO to go 13.78 @ 101.55.
It's exciting and I'm thrilled to share it here. The 2 biggest helps were shifting quickly (not power shifting because I drive to the track) and having the ignition timing dead-on. I was second guessing whether or not the smaller valve 389 wasn't up to the task like a 1967 and up 400, 2.11 intake valve but I see it does work. Thanks for viewing and inspiration from the boards here. Now I can concentrate on 13.50. :--) Here is a picture from Island Dragway Nostalgia event June 2, 2024 https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/8...922/6nPjkA.jpg |
So awesome! :)
Great picture launching off the line. :thumbup: M20 4-speed and 3.55 gears? What octane fuel? |
It's a blast knocking down 13.80 repeatedly during time trials. No b-man, the car is a 4-speed with and open 3;23 rear differential. I have 2 1965 GTO's. The other one is the automatic, which has gone 14.09 many yeas ago but now it's just cherished and treated like a loving child.
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Can a moderator please move this tread to its proper location in the GTO section, thanks. I screwed that up somehow. No wonder it took me so long to go 13's !
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Okay I had already edited my post after reading more carefully about your shifting. Thought you also had a 2-speed car which I now see I wasn’t imagining things.
What rpm are you shifting at? Drag racers want to know. :D |
I'm going by ear. The original owner installed a column-mounted tach but it's inaccurate. I leave it there because it's a nod to him as his car and a "day" 2 piece. If I had to guess, I think about 5000 rpm.
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I used to do the shifting by ear or just feeling where the engine liked to be shifted at in my daily driver ‘64 Tempest, no tachometer. Just an auto trans so not like a stick car but same thing with doing it by ear when it was time to get to racing
On occasion I would bracket race the Tempest when it still had a low-compression 455/068 cam/66 Tri-Power/TH400/2.56 open rear and just click the column shifter into second gear at 55 mph which was about 5300 rpm. Managed a 13.899 @ 101.85 running the 1/4 in first and second gear, all on 87 octane. |
That's Awesome!!! You might see that 13.5 on a cooler day for sure!
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Beautiful car and impressive for a 4spd/1 wheel peel car. Experimenting with shift points might cut some time off and obviously a posi unit
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Since it's all stock and gets traction with one tire, I'd be reluctant to add additional rotating weight which goes against efficiency. Does this make sense? I agree with you on the shift points. |
That is awesome!
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You didn’t mention if this is a 4-barrel or Tri-Power GTO. :)
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It's a stock AFB 4bbl. and I use 112 Sunoco to protect against detonation at the track with 15* timing and I mix the 112 with pump gas for the street, of course with "less fun" dialed in at about 11* BTDC.
The AFB makes great sound through the unsilenced air cleaner. I'd like to thank the person at G.M. who signed off on that It has most of its original exhaust including the factory crushed headpipe on the driver's side and a replacement crushed headpipe on the passenger side. The exhaust system is in poor condition, but I resist taking it down. Maybe a 2.5-inch mandrel bent headpipe to the mufflers would be worth 2 tenths? Add cut-outs? The sparkplugs are 59-year-old AC43's! I just installed them. I almost cried opening up the NOS package :--) But it's either that or some subpar overseas plugs. I don't even like Chinese food. If it's legal for 1965 NHRA and a simple bolt-on that won't disturb the car permanently, I'm interested. I don't have my rule book handy, but I think any exhaust in C/S is legal. |
I love Chinese food myself.
Being married to a Chinese woman who cooks restaurant-quality Sichuan food is actually pretty amazing. :) As far as Chinese parts are concerned a lot of them are actually pretty good and in some cases there’s no other choice. The aftermarket reproduction parts businesses including the sponsor of this forum wouldn’t exist otherwise. Supplying small niche market of old car restoration parts is a poor business model for major American manufacturers so I’m grateful there’s at least something available. |
b-man, if I ever had properly prepared Chinese food that you are lovingly exposed to, I'd be of a different opinion, you're a lucky man. I do enjoy sushi though. My wife is of German Irish descent and can make fantastic Italian dishes.
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I understand the complexities of markets and third-party vendors and yes, it works in some industries, but I wouldn't be speaking truthfully if I said I haven't experienced subpar products from overseas.
One example is to go buy a set of points from Autozone and see how a car that uses points runs. I had ZERO luck with every brand of points.. My own field is the flooring industry. Many products were made overseas with mixed results and are now coming back to the states for manufacturing. Maybe my purchasing luck is different. |
Have you curved the distributor? If not, consider putting in different mechanical advance weights so you get full mechanical advance in by 2500-3000 RPMs.
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No Rich, I haven't recurved the distributor. I've been looking for a good 1965 unit to have a professional go through and set up.
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I saw your other post before this. Thought you found thirteens. Didn't you runner up that day at Island? Recurve the distributor is a good idea, figured you already did that. I'll check my distributor stash. Dates important? You can try one I was running in my 65. The other guys and I can bring some springs on the 7th
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