EFI Expert opinion on this Holley EFI Deal
 

Long story short, Im making a deal with a guy for an LS F-body T56. And he is trying to get out from under parts he bought for a car that he no longer has.

Specifically, what seems to be to a heck of a deal on LS swap Holley EFI stuff.

The parts are a Holley HP kit and harnessPN 550-602.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/550-602
A Holley 7" digital dash PN 553-106.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/553-106

My only concern is the Holley HP is there is a little bit of mixed information. Summit says "For 5.7 LS1". Holleys website says LS1/LS6. THen it later says

Ideal For Everything - including stock 5.3L engine swaps or all out, 3,000+ horsepower race cars that need a simple and powerful ECU and harness solution

Kit includes ECU, harness, communication cable, software and and Bosch wideband 02 sensor designed to be used with GM LS1/LS6 engines with factory GM coils and a 24 tooth crank sensor

I have been considering an LS swap to my 62, because the Olds is an absolute turd, and the Pontiac motor mounts are cut out. So it seems the perfect opportunity. However, Im much more likely to use a truck motor than an LS1/LS6. Can someone tell me if I would be able to use this kit with a 24x 5.3/6.0?

Would I just have to use an LS1 intake or something like that? Maybe the crank/cam sensors are in a different spot?

FWIW, the deal is a working t56, and all this Holley EFI stuff new in box for $2500. I just don't know that I can say no to that, especially when I had been thinking of an LS swap anyway.

Big bummer is it seems like that kit doesn't do transmission control.

Crank sensor is above the starter motor on all LS motors. The cam sensor moved to the timing cover in Gen4's, the Gen3 LS1 is up the back behind the intake. As long as the camshaft core is for a gen3, it should all work fine. The specs look like it's for a drive-by-cable so as long as you have an LS1/LS6 intake manifold for a cable TB and IAC valve, so just don't put an LS2 manifold with a DBW TB and it should party.

Okay so I can’t use a DBW truck manifold but I could use an ls1/6 manifold on an iron block and be just fine.

Gm changed the crank trigger count, its a wheel on the back of the crankshaft inside the engine.
I don't recall what the year was the change took place, may have been around 2006-2007??
They had the 24 then went to 50-something. My memory is fuzzy because I quit messing with them 20 years ago but it's something like that. The computer has to be compatible for the trigger wheel you're using.

Yeah I know about the 24 to 58 thing. It’s basically dbw vs drive by cable change isn’t it? So as long as I’m an early drive by cable engine I’m good.

A little more research I think says that the injector plugs are different on LS1 v truck motors, and the Ls1s have separate MAF and IAT sensors where the 5.3 is combined.

I told him I would take it. Honestly I might try to sell the HP kit to someone trying to make more power and buy a cheaper kit that suits my needs and offers transmission control.

Yeah I know about the 24 to 58 thing. It’s basically dbw vs drive by cable change isn’t it? So as long as I’m an early drive by cable engine I’m good.

A little more research I think says that the injector plugs are different on LS1 v truck motors, and the Ls1s have separate MAF and IAT sensors where the 5.3 is combined.

I told him I would take it. Honestly I might try to sell the HP kit to someone trying to make more power and buy a cheaper kit that suits my needs and offers transmission control.

Do some digging on the transmission control and make sure it will do everything you want. As I mentioned before in another thread there are several complaints the Holley transmission parameters are more primitive and have some limits with what you can do compared to an actual controller. Some are ok with it but some seem to want more control over it.

It may not mean anything to most people. You know how this stuff goes, a lot of people complain over some of the silliest things.

Sorry about the double post. I hate that.

At the end of the day a tuned factory ECM might be the best for me. That said I want to use that digital dash so I might stick to Holley for plug and play there.

It just seems like the HP would be better suited to someone else. I just can’t say no to 3600 dollar of equipment for $1300.

Honestly just to run the motor naturally aspirated or boosted (no nitrous), the factory GM ECU with HP Tuners is kinda hard to beat. My Gen4 E38 in my Holden (Pontiac G8 over there) is fantastic, the motor is turbocharged with on the fly flex fuel. Car puts 630hp to the ground through a 6L80e on pump gas - E85 testing to come really soon :D. If you want to get a digital dash, some dashs will talk via the OBD port with LS1 ECU's like a Racepak IQ3 or I think a Haltech IC7/UC10 for gen4 ECU's.