Pulling V8 on a ‘63 AC car
 

Starting on my ‘63 engine pull. Engine is a ‘69 400.
It looks as though the heater blower and the duct that runs to the firewall would need to come out, but the ‘63 manual doesn’t mention pulling it, just moving the AC compressor out of the way obviously.
I’d rather NOT pull the blower and duct if possible, but don’t want the engine hanging on the cherry picker to find out it’s in the way.
Car came with a 326 originally if that makes a difference.
Anyone pull the engine on a ‘63 set up like this before, and did the blower get in the way?
Brake booster is another question, manual doesn’t mention having to pull that either.

This place is dead Norwalk weekend. :)

Get out your measuring tape and see if the engine has enough room to move forward and clear the booster/master assembly and the heater blower ducting when you start lift it it up.

That’s probably all you have to do.

Well, I’ve done that, but it’s such a close call. Looks like if I just get the weight off the motor mounts and go straight forward a few inches it may work. I’m just trying to interpret the whole torque tube and shaft steps at the moment. Looks like I’m one step away from pulling it entirely out and pulling the axle shafts out just to disconnect the torque tube, this according to the ‘63 manual. This is all uncharted water for me with this stock ‘63 rear end.
I found out I can’t even remove the valve covers on this engine while the engine is in the car. If there’s a way, I don’t see it without removing the blower motor and heater core box. Ugh.
Just a little aggravated at the moment.
That’s the bottom of heater core box above the valve cover. Manual doesn’t mention any of this, so I don’t know if it’s the small differences in the ‘69 engine, or the manual is just vague. That’s why I figured if someone who’s done this could chime in maybe they would know.

You dont have to pull the axles to remove the TQ tube.The rope shaft is splined where it goes into the trans axle.If its a auto you can unbolt the rope shaft from crank.Tom

Oh good! Looking at it it didn’t seem necessary, but who am I to 2 nd guess a manual when I’ve never done this! :)
I like checking for oil at all rockers while I’m priming engine for the cam break in. I’d have to install the valve covers before I reinstall the engine though.
Thanks for the reply, at least I don’t have to do the axle shafts.

Prime the engine while it’s still on the stand.

You could also ditch the booster and go manual brakes so maybe at least on one side you could get the valve cover off.

Also it might not be a big deal to get the heater ductwork out or the way, might not be all that involved.

Prime the engine while it’s still on the stand.

You could also ditch the booster and go manual brakes so maybe at least on one side you could get the valve cover off.

Also it may not be a big deal to get the heater ductwork out or the way when you need to, it might not be all that involved.

The booster’s pretty easy, so no worries there. I’ve had that out in 10 minutes.
I just figured I’d quit whining and do it. Was it necessary, I don’t know, but gives me chance to get the leaves and junk out of everything ,and the engine bay iswide open now for my peace of mind.
Thanks guys, I’m sure I’ll have more questions along the way.
I’m going in to eat, and then try to get the exhaust and that crazy torque tube deal done after I take a break.

Ok. Next question, this is an automatic transmission. Do I pull the bell housing with the engine, or leave it attached to the torque tube and just pull the engine after I disconnect the rope shaft.

I would unbolt the rope shaft from the crank and unbolt the TQ tube and pull the engine with the bell.Tom

Thanks. Sounds like a plan.
Didn’t get it finished, did the rope shaft bolts, but still have the torque tube and exhaust manifold studs, those look new, so don’t think I’ll have to break the torches out.

Be sure to use some copper antiseize on the exhaust bolts and on pretty much anything else you’re putting back together.

Of course there are places where perhaps some blue Loctite might be wise but again there’s no reason at least in my mind where you would want to assemble anything with dry threads. I never put anything together without some kind of lube or where it’s wise a locking agent.

The next time you have to work on it you’ll thank yourself. :)

If you remove the grill and the cross brase for the radiator you can pull the motor strait forward further to get more clearance.

When you unbolt those six grade 8 bolts from the torque shaft to the crank, make sure that you first take a 12 or 18" long piece of old heater hose; slice the lengthwise and cover the torque shaft. You can access it from the inspection cover at the bottom of the bell-housing on a 2 speed automatic car.


The shaft has a clear coating on it from the factory to prevent rust, if that clear-coat ever gets nicked or scratched the shaft will start to rust.

The rust will weaken the shaft as it's under compression from both ends when the engine is running. That drive shaft rotates in a arc, not as the crow flies.

Thanks guys. I just happened to be pulling it as we speak. Crazy last couple weeks, so I just got out there.
I shoved a big wad of rags in the torque tube to prevent the rope shaft from hitting the tube.
The guy who was supposed to help is out of town, so tried it on my own. I’ve done it before.
Not in this case. I need someone under there to make sure the flange on the rope shaft doesn’t catch on the bell housing., as I would suspect this would pull it out of the transmission in back.
Heading up to the parts store in town to see if the owner can lend a hand when he closes in half an hour.

Success.
Caught the owner of the parts store just as he was locking up. He came over and in about 5 minutes had the oil pan clear of the frame, and the engine about 4 farther forward. He boogied, and I just unbolted the bell housing and finished the pull on my own.
All safe on the engine stand now.
Thanks guys