Pass side front control arms bolts
 

So I ordered new upper bolts for upper a arms of these from Ames. I notice the hex end has serrated ends ,,, like a wheel stud would have. Obviously so the stay in place. So looks like you’d have to pull these in. Is there a trick to getting the old ones out? Obviously putting a socket on it wouldn’t help and you strip the hole in the frame out then the new ones wouldn’t have anything to bite on.. My original bolts aren’t horrible but there is some pitting at the base.

And as far as the driver’s side go you’ve got to pull these steering shaft? If I cut the bolts off and put new bolts in at the same time the new arm went it,,,maybe not have to pull the shaft?

They should just come out with some light tapping with a hammer, they arent as tight of a press fit as wheel studs, the ones Ive done have always come out without too much effort... as long as they arent rusted stuck. Try some penetrating lube or heat around the hole if they are stubborn.

They are pulled in when tightening the nut, but again not quite like a wheel stud, they should go in ~80% of the way by just tapping them in with a small hammer. Yours look to be in pretty good shape based on the pic, if its just light pitting from surface rust Id probably leave them alone, or make the decision after removing them.

I've always had good luck prying them out. I'll find something like a piece of wood to wedge against.

I unhooked the rag joint and swung it up out of the way. I didn’t think it would move at all. Then the arm ran into the exhaust manifold on the driver side before it came off the studs. Had to trim 1/4” off the ends of the bolts and finally got the arm off. Like was mentioned the studs look good enough to leave there. I’ve never ripped apart a front end so this is all new to me.

tap em out with a hammer
trick is when putting new ones in
I find is
once you put the new one in the frame slowly twist it until you feel the knurl line up with each othe
then hold it in place,,,, stack your washers on the thraeded end put a nut on NOT the original and snug it up
and pull it into the frame....
if you just randomly put the new bolt in and snug it down often the bolt will just spin in the frame because you knocked the highspots off that wer going to hold the bolt still

C-clamp with a socket works great to remove the studs. You can also use a tie rod or ball joint tool. Not sure a wheel stud tool will get in there.

A C-clamp or other tool might get around the steering shaft, but disconnecting from box is not a biggie.



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An air chisel with a sharp flat edge bit on the shank near the head of the bolt will walk those bolts right out in a few hits. No need to remove the steering shaft. If you have no air chisel a long cold chisel, and hammer will do the same thing. The chisel needs to be sharp to get a bite on the bolt shank.

Pull the new ones in with a non locking nut with spacers as has already been mentioned. Lube the threads as well as the serrations to aid pulling the new bolts in. Most all GM bolts are a 7/16" coarse thread.

Old flat rate mechanic trick, time is money when you work flat rate.

If the frame brackets will not hold the serrations to keep the new bolts from turning, a couple spot welds with the bolt in tension will suffice.

Just a suggestion but that's how I'd attack the problem.

:2cents:

All great suggestion to remove them, but its much easier & saves more time to leave them in there if they are in good condition and not have to mess with the new ones possibly not grabbing.

Sounds like hes leaving them in there...