What do you do when your tranny will not go in?
 

I have a interesting story about an M20 4 speed tranny that will not go in. Background I have been Doing this for over 40 Years. I used my alinement tool centered perfectly. I put on the pressure plate. brought it snug and up to 25 ft lbs. in 5 lb. increments. Cleaned and filed the bellhousing. Torked it to 50 ft lbs.
The bellhousing, clutch fork, ball stud, throw out bearing, clutch and pressure plate are all new.
I got the trans. underneath on a 3 ton floor jack, and jacked into position then most of the way in. Made sure throw out bearing and splines where a little greased and lined up. Put in 6" studs on top for the trans. to ride in on. I wiggled it I jacked it up and down. I put a rachet strap around the frame and tail housing. I put a rachet strap under the headers to support the engine separately then jacked the trans. up and down, and moved it side to side. A full day of this and I still have 1/2 inch. I'm thinking it has got to be the pilot bearing. I loosened all the transmission bolts to even rachet strapped it forward, and left it over night. This morning i decided to work on the driveline Mabey that will help. I tried prying the driveline in with a large screw driver. It finally nudged forward. The transmission is in. Sometimes it goes right in no problems. This time it took a whole day.
How do you get your tranny in?

Put the trans in high gear. Turn the output shaft as you go together, when it stops turning you know the splines are meshing, but if it still lacks about 3/4" you know the pilot shaft is butting against the pilot bearing. At that point, the angle of the trans is critical and "jiggling" it separate from the jack is helpful, OR, having an associate press the clutch pedal down will allow the input to move around and find the pilot (really helps to have an alignment bolt to ride on).

If you used the plastic alignment shaft they sometimes are just not that great.I have found a old trans input shaft is way better.FWIW,Tom

Did you replace the pilot bearing/bushing while the trans was out? The alignment tool might fit, but the input shaft might not fit in the pilot bearing.

RED FLAG....all the parts are "new". Did you check runout on the bellhouseing? I used a brand new Lakewood blowproof and after running my car a few miles and 10 passes on a 1/4" track, upon disassembly the pilot bearing was destroyed. Turns out my bellhousing needed some alignment.

No but I inspected and greased it. Its hardly a year old. I just have to much power for a heavy duty 11' stage 2 clutch. Just barley nocked the paint off one rivet. I going with ceramic metal pucks. I can't believe we are still using these disk type arrangement. We can not do anything electromagnetic sealed with no wear.

I did all of that a year ago. The flywheel is the right thickness. The fork ball stud is the right height. The parts are all for 67-71 Pontiac for 428. I even got the swivel Z bar for a GTO and fit it up. It works perfectly like silk. When its got any clutch lining left. I think my installation problem may have to do with the case. It looks like it is a mold of a case that had been repaired. before they made a mold out of it. I need to research that.

rachet strap the tranny forward and turn the engine, work the clutch while turning the engine. Then tighten the bolts a little more. Muncies where hard to put in 40 years ago. I would get on my back underneath it and put both feet on the tail shaft both hands on the case. Twist and roust. They called me in for a cast iron m22. Nothing help this one is so tight. And sometimes it justr slides right in on the studs like the manual says.

Cuss and when I was younger throw a tool or two and then figure out why. Now I just skip the first two steps

Did you check to ensure the pilot bearing fits over the tip of the input shaft?

Good suggestions above. Sure, sometimes the transmission is just super stubborn going together. I try to test fit everything beforehand like you have done first. Here are 4 things I have learned or tried with the tough ones. 1. Having the trans lined-up absolutely straight with the engine, (angle) is critical. 2. DO NOT use bolts, nuts, prying, pulling devices to push/pull the trans into the engine. 3. I have put the trans in 2 gears at once to to then gently twist it slightly to line everything up exactly. 4. In rare cases, I have had a helper gently push the clutch pedal in after the trans has engaged the clutch disc. This allows that tiny bit of movement to line everything up so it will slide in. Hope this helps.

What i found to work nicely with a Muncie is to lock it in 2 gears going in with the wiggle / slight twisting so the input shaft is solid , .. This helps with quick alignment of splines instead of the shaft wobbling willie nillie

IF you're SURE the input has engaged the splines, then the disc is off just enough just enough so that the input shaft won't go in the pilot bearing, have a friend depress the clutch pedal, while you are underneath the car putting pressure on the trans to go in.

Didn’t read all post sorry if it’s been mentioned. We always use a tool to get it close we also hookup all the clutch linkage then install trans into bell if it doesn’t go all the way in you have one person barely push the pedal and the trans will go right in. Hardest part is you need two people but works great for us.

If you are using one of those plastic alignment tools, be sure it will move in and out absolutely effortlessly. If you have to use any force, it’s bending/ distorting.

Standard procedure for me is to align the clutch up like usual with an alignment tool, install the bellhousing, insert the transmission in as far as possible. Then, pry on the clutch arm with a long pry bar, releasing the clutch, while pushing in on the transmission. 9 times out of 10 it will slide right in place.

Is it in yet?

TWSS

[QUOTE=Half-Inch Stud;6560950]Is it in yet?[/Q That part with the pry bar is very good. I got it with a large screw driver by pushing the pilot shaft away from the clutch fork. I figured out that since the transmission is not all the way in yet. The throw out bearing is pulling the pilot shaft out of alignment just enough that it won't go into the piolet bearing. Once i pried it toward the passenger side I heard a clunk. Then she eased right in there all the way minimal effort.
Victory is mine. I am with clutch now. The last one was Carbon Kevlar and lasted one year to the day. That pry bar thing would have done it thank you.