Why can't parts actually fit!
 

I was installing a new Victor EFI intake the other day and ended up spending almost 2 hours grinding on it to get it to fit!

I'm used to grinding a bit on the upper and lower parts of the mating surface to get an intake to clear the valve covers & valley pan, but I couldn't get 2 of the bolts in due to the runners overhanging the hole!

I had to grind a ton of material off of the front side of the #5 runner (It's like 3/4" thick) in order to get a bolt in. It was kinda like that one header bolt that you have to put in first with the header pulled away from the head because a tube is in the way, but you can't do that with an intake.
(See shaded area of photo)

The hole on the back side of the #4 runner was the same.

I miss the days of just bolting on a part without fitment issues. :rolleyes:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...1&d=1745893303

Everything you describe is normal stuff with any aftermarket part. We used to call it "Hot Rodding". Had a student this semester spend over 5 hours grinding/drilling/filing an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake to fit a set of Speedmaster heads. All 8 mounting holes needed modification. The lower flange of the intake needed clearance between the valley cover as well as the cover itself. The top of the intake needed softening and reshaping top clear the valve cover rail. On the plus side, I much prefer having an intake with lots of material to possibly remove than having to weld up and shape in intake. At the typical shop rate of $125.00 an hour, he had $625.00 of labor fitting a $250.00 manifold. That is typical.

Typical for a Victor

So it's not just sheet metal, or emblems, or glass, or door panels, or moldings, or wiring, or disc brake conversion kits, or exhaust systems, or replacement Muncie parts that are made crappy? Glad to hear it's not just me.

I swear to god the next time my driver header comes out Im oversizing one of the holes. Everytime it goes in it feels like its stripping the hole in my expensive aluminum head.

Yea, i get it. But add threading a darn Stock Starter bolt to go in, while holding a Stock Starter, Had been a challenge on my last build.

The first number two bolt hole looks kinda tight also.

I install a suitable length of threaded rod into the block. Push the starter onto it then hold the starter in place with a nut on the end of the rod. Start the proper starter bolt in the other hole then remove the threaded rod. Easy peasy,

Prime example of why I don't mess with aftermarket parts.

The quality of fit seems to vary with the company.

Just one of many reasons why, after a couple of others, we refused to do any aftermarket intake manifold / carburetor set-ups for street use other than Offenhauser, if Offy offered an intake.

Of ALL of the Offenhauser intakes we sold or used every single one fit with no issues.

Others may have had different experiences, don't know.

When one is in business, wasted time equals wasted money!

Jon

Fit is one thing, function properly is an entirely different issue.

LOL If they did I would be out of a job.

GT

I just had a call from a friend who was having trouble getting the water crossover to seal up to the back of the timing cover.
Water crossover was separated from intake.
Intake bolt holes had to be clearanced to make it work so that intake bolt threads weren't against the side of the holes.
There is a lot of extra work in making parts fit properly.


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40 yrs ago I bought a set well known headers for my 67 F 400 4spd. They wouldn't bolt up. I had to redrill move at least 3 holes on each side. The exhaust tube holes were not d port almost like a chevy. Soo dont feel slighted. The cost though today does make it hard to accept.The headers tucked up nice under the car. I still have them.