Rear End Assembly Removal - 1968 Firebird
 

Is it possible to remove the rear axle assembly out the rear of a 1968 Firebird just by removing the rear spring eye bolts? The spring eyes are close to the rear lower valance.

No. At minimum, you'll also have to pull the shock absorbers, the brake hose, the park-brake cables.

When I yanked the axle out of my '77 Nova, I had to remove the piece that the front spring eyes bolt-to. Photos 1 and 2. Doing that, I discover that the pocket in the body that the spring-holder attaches to, had damaged clip-nuts. Photos 3.

I don't know how similar your '68 F-body is to a '77 X-body. Never had a first-gen apart.

Kind of figured threar spring assemblies had to come down too. That’s more than I can handle working alone at 67. I guess then this will be a ring and pinion change with my current 8.2. I read there’s a way to use 8.2 Chevy stuff with an adapter kit for the pinion and yoke. I’m running a stick 350 so no need for a more robust rear axle. Thanks

On my 68 I swapped the 10 bolt for a Camaro 12 bolt posi. I did not have to do anything with the springs other than unbolt the spring perches. Drive shaft, shocks, brake line, parking brake cable.

My experience has been the same as Tooski’s With the car on jackstands and using a transmission jack, I am able to “see-saw” the rear end assembly by unbolting the perches. Of course disconnect brake lines, shocks, driveshaft.

I just finished a rear end swap on my 1964 Le Mans. Yeah it’s not a leaf spring car but still.

Solo, I like to do work by myself most of the time. If it’s something that I need help with for a few minutes like removing or replacing the hood then I get some help.

Engine and transmission removal or installation always solo, I have the right equipment and I find it easier to concentrate on my work with nobody to distract me.

I’m almost 66 now, get your confidence up.

If you've got use of some floor jacks, it's definitely possible to do this yourself. The thing that you may fight is balancing the axle, especially if it has it's brakes still attached. If the brakes aren't on the ends, the majority of the weight is concentrated in the center section and there's typically not a huge issue with balance.

The way I did it myself is as you described. I left the front eyes in place, unbolted the u bolts, removed the lower plates, then supported the rear with a floor jack. Unhook the leafs from the shackles, and let them fall to the ground. Assuming the shocks and brake lines have already been removed (remove the soft line at the rear of the main cabin floor) you can then walk the rear end out of the back of the car.

Reverse with the new rear end from there.

I don't know about first-gen F- or X-body. I have suspicions...

You show me a multi-leaf second-gen F, or a '75--'79 X-body, and I'll show you a car with broken leaf springs; or one that's already had the rear springs replaced. Broken leafs are so common you might as well say it's "all of them".

The problem generally starts on the main leaf where it's clamped to the axle bracket. Therefore, hidden between rubber pads, invisible, and with the axle mount holding the pieces together.

You remove the axle from the springs, you'd better inspect the springs.

First generation Firebird? My concern is the leaf spring clearing the rear valance.

Not a lack of confidence….Im blessed with severe arthritis in my lower spine. I have to hold my breath and grit my teeth to put my socks and shoes on.

Mine were split all the way through when I swapped out the originals for the Hotchkis units that are in the car now. OP this is a real possibility if you're leafs are factory.

You may want to at least budget for replacements if that ends up being the case.

Yes, first gen. 69 to be precise. You can drop the front eyelets as well if you think you might have an issue. Makes getting the rear end out a little tougher, but still doable.