Tanks inc System Install
 

OK, I'm ready (I hope) to dive into this next week. I've got a game plan which I'll quickly run through. Any tips, advice, caution are welcome, especially if you've done it before (Formulajones). But even if you didn't do yours yourself, just things you like, or don't like, about your install will be helpful.

I'm planning on removing all the factory fuel lines and running the new lines in more-or-less the same route up the passenger side to the regulator which I'm planning on mounting on the passenger side firewall. Then I'll run the line to the carb from there. I'm putting a fuel pressure gauge in that line to the carb, which will sit next to the carb. I've got a -6AN adapter to go into the fuel inlet to the Qjet. I'm using 2, 90 deg fittings making a 180 to connect to the line coming from the regulator.

For the electrical stuff, I'm thinking of mounting the relay and circuit breaker on the rear end of the drivers side inner fender well. Trying to keep things hidden as much as possible. Power from the battery cable at the starter, ground to firewall, ignition wire to the fuse block. The power wire to the pump I'm going to run through the cabin, into the trunk then through a grommet to the pump. I'm also going to install a manual switch under the dash.

I think that's it. What did I forget?

dont put regulator on firewall if you want to race it, its NHRA illegal to do so. find spot on wheel well instead

That's good to know but if I'm being honest with myself, I'm not going to race it. Once I get into it, I'll be reassessing everything as I go so nothing is carved in stone.

Looking at the circuit breaker, the terminals are completely exposed. I'm searching for an electric box of some sort to put it in. Any ideas? Maybe a different circuit breaker?

https://i.imgur.com/1eApUTq.jpeg

EDIT:

OK, found this from painless performance:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80040

I recently did one on my 66 Lemans - used -8an supply and return black braided PTFE lines. I put a mechanical fuel pump delete plate and installed the universal bypass regulator there - tip from Larry (FJ). At the tank, I extended the feed and return line connections using NPT pipe. Makes it much easier to connect the flex lines after tank is installed.

Look up HWYSTR455 (Mike Rahm) - he did a thread for an install on an a Lemans - great tips in there too.

I'm not as familiar with the 2nd gen sub-frame, but on the first gen, there's amply space on the back side of the cross member to mount a regulator. This allows you to run the fuel line up the front of the engine like it does from the factory, if stock appearing is of any concern.

Otherwise it sounds like you've got a decent handle on this.

You can mount the regulator by the fuel pump block off plate if you decide to run the lines on the same side, it should be pretty hidden and then you can run a single line up to the carb in the factory spot.

Thanks for the replies.

grivera: That's a nice setup you have there at the tank. Sadly, I have the transverse muffler so I have zero space back there. You did give me a good idea though. I'm going to put fittings in my lines somewhere close to the tank so I can disconnect if I ever need to remove the tank again. The regulator mounting you have is also pretty slick, but I think I like the firewall for better access.

As far as the stock appearance goes, I could get the line to the old fuel pump area and connect to the factory pump to carb line. I'm not sure if that's worth it. I think I'll just run it from the regulator on the firewall, on the right side of the carb like I planned. If I don't like the look, I can always reroute it. hopefully it will be somewhat hidden by the air cleaner. We'll see.

These Blue Sea marine circuit breakers have insulated housings or you could go with the blade style terminals breakers and insulated terminal ends.

I've used other Blue Sea products and have found the to be quality products.

https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-marin...yABEgIgB_D_BwE

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/GRO8...yABEgIFivD_BwE

I didn't see if you're running a return from the regulator?

Looking forward to more details as I have the same tank standing by for me to finish other details before I install it. I'm planning on going with a transverse muffler as you did. I want less weight and to have that weight over the rear axle.

Thanks for that. The Blue Sea stuff looks nice. It looks like a nicer piece than what I ordered. I'll pick one of those up.

I am running a return line.

I'm a little bit worried about the tank. I hope I don't have fit or access problems with the transverse muffler. It's a Pypes exhaust, not factory so we'll see.

jhein- what size feed/return lines are you using for this set up? Still 3/8 or going to 1/2" like most do & is recommended for your power level... at least the feed/return lines should be bigger, the line to the carb could be 3/8 or -6 if braided.

You said you were keeping the stock routing I think, which runs the lines on the pass side, is it close to a header? But if you mount on the regulator on the firewall, passing by the header isnt an issue... my single -8 feed line runs on top the pass frame like stock but come a little closer to the header than Id like, its got heat wrap on it and didnt have any issues without the wrap, but adding a return next to it on that side will get too close for comfort.

Looking forward to pics & info as you install it.

Tanks said that 3/8 would be adequate for all the lines. Is that not correct?

I think I should be able to keep the lines away from the exhaust. I'm running RA manifolds so I should have more clearance than with headers.

I’m trying to plan a similar project for the winter and I’m trying to understand whether 3/8 feed is good for under XXX hp vs going up to 1/2”

A lot of what I read has people saying things like go to 1/2” so you have reserve, etc, I’m just trying to understand what’s right vs “might as well”

A -6 feed and return is likely okay, especially if you were moving to EFI where fuel pressures are greater. For a carbureted application, it may be better to run a -8 feed and return.

Jay S has mentioned on a couple occasions the heating effect of forcing fuel through the smaller lines becomes more of an issue with a carburetor.

I'm not understanding why a low pressure carb application would require larger lines on the high pressure side of the regulator when compared to an EFI application. Tanks is telling me the 3/8 will be more than adequate for well above 500 hp with the GPA-4 pump.

Im just reiterating what most on here say to use for feed/return, especially with a bigger pump than their smaller one. Cliff insists on 1/2" at this power level with elect or mech pumps... but then again you said you dont plan to do any drag racing and running most any tire on the street will break free way before the G forces come into effect, and the main purpose of this set up for you is to price the carb after sitting for awhile.

For your application 3/8 will probably be ok.

Are you staying with 3/8 for the sake of easier routing?

That's one consideration for sure.

So the fuel overheats and causes vapor lock in carb application?

If you think about how this works in an EFI vs a carbureted platform, it makes a bit of sense.

There's far less pressure in the fuel lines when running this system carbureted, so there's more fuel flow (flow increases and pressure decreases) which would cause some friction heating as the fuel flows through the lines.

Because the carburetor also has fuel bowls that act as a reservoir, you're passing much more fluid through the whole system at all times. The larger line slows down the column of fuel, which in theory should create less fuel heating.

I don't know if that's really going to be a huge concern or not though. You can always run an inline heat sink too if it ever becomes a problem.