Crank key removal
 

Ok I have really worked on getting 3-4 of these keys out of the last couple builds (years). I just removed a key from a 428 crank because I have a box of new keys and I wanted to, plus the snout needed a little emory cloth attention. So it is out, but it Lead me To thinking there has to be an easier way.
The his time I hit the key flat at the block side, "tapped" the key up w a cold chisel, for longer then I think it should take. Then I levered a small flat head screw
Driver and got to be a little more, then a vise grip and a hammer to try and get it to lift out of the key way, then back to a flat head until the tip broke, removed tip
With a magnet, and started looking for something round as it is the strongest shape, found a finishing nail punch that fit the bill and gently tapped
It under the key and wiggled it and then tapped a little
More and knew I was going to win this battle.

Anyway what do you guys do????

Oh can they be a pain!!!
Maybe if you can tack weld a 1/4” bolt to each end and then use a slap hammer to yank it out?

Leverage.
Start with a pair of side cutters and pry it up. That usually does it.
If that doesn't work, tap the claw end of a hammer around it.
Either way- all of 3-4 seconds, tops. Quick & Done.

Ha, just today i tried to pound the 421 crank key out. Nope! It stays in for the build, Walked away.

That is interesting method thank you

Tap one end of the key down/back, then use a drift to continue tapping down & back, and the opposite end rolls right out of the slot. Use the slot to you're advantage, so to speak.

If it's really stubborn, a little bit of heat may help, but the 100s of cranks I've done w above method I've never had to use heat.

If the key has some minor damage on the long edges, you can hit it with a file before you start tapping down/back.

If you start tapping down/back and it stops in the slot on a long edge, tap opposite side until it's more level and hit the long edges with a file, and start again tapping down/back.


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These are the best side cutters you will ever find, sharp too.
Soak the keyway with PB Blaster a few times. Get a brass punch and a 2 lb hammer and hit down on the ends, get it to move a little. Make your last hit on the end closest to the block. Take a good pair of side cutters like these and pry it out. Dress your marks with file.
https://www.amazon.com/7700N-200BG-L...st_sto_dp&th=1

A nice pair of high leverage diagonal cut pliers similar to this one linked will get 90% of them right out. Every now and then you have to resort to a chisel.
https://www.harborfreight.com/11-in-..._source=google

Maybe I've always been lucky!


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To avoid a duel problem to this day have to remind myself to try a new key out in the balancer first .

That way avoid having to take it out of the snout of the crank to have to rework it some.

Banging was no good. I used a long screwdriver (pry) and a normal screwdriver(fulcrum) against the 1st Main ( not near the bearing edge), and that key got out like frozen butter.

Appears to be a common complaint :)
I had never tried cutting pliers or the claw hammer method I will keep
In mind for
Next time this crank is 20/20 I'm obviously not the first monkey here. The top of the key was dimpled which probably tightened up the key way clearances too. New key slips right in crank and thru balancer. The little Things drive me nuts

Yes they can be like they’re welded in place. As said already, rocking the key back with a punch on the back edge and then a Christel on the front to continue rolling it out has worked for me. I’m sure there are exceptions to this working every time.

Oh, I 'doctor' crank keys to aid installation of balancer. I 'bull nose' the front of key, and put a sharpie mark on snout inline with the key for orientation.

As the balancer is being installed, you can remove the balancer tool and actually look into the slot from the front, see the key, and ensure it's engaging with the slot properly. If it's off a little, you can lightly tap one of the bolts of the balancer tool in one direction or the other to make minor adjustments.

Here's a pic of the last one I doctored showing the bull nose.

I also use a white sharpie to mark the gears' dot to aid in alignment.



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I take pics of that stuff so I don't question myself in the future! Heheh!


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