Concrete floor chip repair
 

What is a good product for repairing damage as seen in the photo? It's about 3" long. I'll spare you the details, but the concrete guys ended up with way too wet a "cream" on the top during finishing, I'm going to have problems with the surface delaminating under shock for many years.

Not sure whether to use something like an epoxy product, or a mortar product. Floor was sealed with water based sealer, nothing fancy.

Thanks,

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...2&d=1766743371

If you believe that it is going to continue to delaminate it may be best to bite the bullet, rent a grinder and reseal the entire slab.

Dave

I'll probably be pushing up daisies in 10 years so it only has to last that long. In some areas it's fine, in others I'm going to see this delamination if I drop anything heavy on it.

For now I just need a solution that prevents a wheel from getting caught in it when I'm rolling equipment around.

Possibly a floor leveling compound would work but for a very small spot I would try a two part epoxy PC7, JB Weld. Being it is under roof and not subject to UV or freeze thaw it should hold up fine.

A friend of mine had the same problem a few years back, not sure what he used to repair the first couple of depressions but he ended up grinding and resealing.

Dave

Yep I was thinking about JB weld.

Unfortunately this shop has a LOT of stuff already in it with no alternative place to store it, it is all on wheels so that would be a help, but would have to be done one half at a time.

They'd probably have to take off about 1/4", which I imagine would be hugely expensive and dusty. Upside is .... it would probably come off easy :)

Not dusty, as it is a wet grind but I am sure it is not a speedy process.

If I recall correctly my friend only had a problem with steel wheel equipment, loaded engine stand or engine lift caused chipping. Solid or pneumatic tires were fine.

Five Star grout. We use it in nuclear power plants. Has like 10000psi load rating. They also have a fluid grout you can mix. If you have some delamination, I would take an air chisel and work back to sound concrete before I used the grout.

Thank you, I'll give that try. I have some door thresholds that can use it too. Shop is only a year old, I should have called the builder and made him come back and grind it.

So far so good with metal wheels, only piece of equipment I have on metal wheels at the moment is the engine hoist, I did use it to unload a 600+ lb sheet of 1/2" plate from my truck and roll it across the shop with no ill effect. At present the only thing that seems to chip it badly is dropping something heavy and angular. Some places it just does normal chipping, other places it takes off a section of the surface.

This may be help maybe not understand what is going on. In the concrete industry states are pushing technology to make concrete less expensive( yep here we go)for roads and bridges. They 'are' using stone 'dust' as a certain % of portland cement. The dust is by product of stone crushing. They are adding this dust plus chemical's to make concrete less expensive, cheaper. From what I'm hearing concrete suppliers to the state like here in Pa.,have different 'designs ' for different applications. Sometimes suppliers will use their state designs with stone dust for commercial applications.Its OK however it takes new methods of finishing ,more time and training. The bleed water acts differently from what I've been told. This could be your problem not saying it is. I was just told that Pa is requiring schooling- retraining for cement finishers because of the problem you are describing. Not saying it is,maybe. I'm old school no chemicals( maybe I'm not educated enough to advantages of chemicals), no dust
just portland cement,stone, and sand.

Put racecdeck over the ugly concrete. Colors are endless, I did mine. Love it.

I have used this on my sidewalk with satisfactory results. Got it at Lowe's

Something like that RaceDeck would be an option if some area started bothering me. Wonder how it holds up to high focused loads, 1000 lb tool box on casters, engine hoist etc.

I got the solid, not sure why they make the vent type, all the dirt would fall through. Whole area was installed in 4 hours. Final back row had to be custom cut on a table saw. Extra hour. Best floor I’ve ever had.
Painted concrete never holds up.

Prob get a smaller box, went over a buddy’s with one of those huge boxes, has every tool, he couldn’t get the pad off my da sander with all those tools. Lmao. Ended up doing it myself.

I repaired the GF’s porch that had pot holes in the orig center pad, can’t remember what we used, but after she painted it yiu can hardly tell.
Get repair area wet, sprinkle cement on first, then trowel on repair. That’s what I did.
We used a concrete repair product. Came in a white bucket.

Burd - Is it hard to keep the white portions clean?

Mine is silver, w/ a black border around. Couple times a year I run a damp mop thing around. Super easy.
For cleaning, I bought the swapT kit, Awesome set.
I keep my garage at 65°. I’m out there all the time in my socks doing something. Another thing is if you move, you can take it , other than the cut ones it can all go in a new garage.

I think the vented ones are for where you have a floor or trench drain.

Burd - how big of a floor did you put down, and how long have you had it? My floor is about 15 years old, and most of the sealant has worn off. I'm having a lot of problems with concrete dusting, and really don't want to have to strip and reseal the floor only to have to do it again in a few years. I've needed to do something with the floor for at least 5 years, so while this is pricey, it would also be a one and done. Also have you rolled anything across it like a jack or a cherry picker with an engine on it?

Floor Jack no problem, spills wipe up, no tire marks , I’ve had it down 9 years. UPS delivered it rite to the garage, they come 4 together, and all you need is a little rubber mallet. Vac floor and go, not like the eng wood floors, this is easy.
I started where I wanted the last row to end up by the door. Leave a gap by walls,
Router and a St edge is good to cut too. There’s an edge kit you get to trans. Corners and all. Very thought out kit. 3/4 of floor in my 3-1/2 car garage was $1200
Last stall I put low knap carpet. It’s the hang out area. Tucks rite under floor. Got a 12x20 ftom lowes, black /gray. 120$.



Couple PCs of luan woud protect say a cherry picker. I hear at BJ they auction off all their Race deck every year. You can get a deal.

Have you ever spilled gasoline on it? I have almost 2k sq ft to do, so at current prices it'll be 8k to do it.

I don’t think I have, you can order 1 tile and experiment on it. Meet me for a coffee, I’ll give you a pc. lol I have a furnace w/ a pilot light, I dont go spilling gas ever. You’ll be a Jay Leno.
I left a small area concrete for my cub vac and riding mower, just so I’m not on carpet or flooring.

If you look at the back side, it would take alot to crush it.