Ram air exhaust
 

Has anyone used the 9777642 and 9777646 ram air exhaust on 66 GTO? First is it direct bolt on no revamping stuff? Do you need to do Reroute battery cable etc. is there any noticeable power gain?

just looking in

I have a set on my 1966 GTO. IIRC i had to remove some material on the drivers side manifold closest to the engine crossmember, no big deal.
I also added the solenoid heat shield and rerouted starter cables like they are on 1967 RA/HO GTO.
I don´t know about power gains, some say 5-10 hp at 5000 rpm´s, but they sound 100% nicer than tube headers.
I´m using a 2,5" Pypes exhaust system with 14" mufflers w/o X.

Once you have them on, you´ll wont look back.

Kenth,

How did you reroute your starter cables. I am assuming you are working on a 66 GTO.
I have ram air exhaust manifolds on my 66 389.
What gauge wires did you use.
I am using #1 gauge wielding wire.
Thanks.
FB66

Kenth,

How did you reroute your starter cables. I am assuming you are working on a 66 GTO.
I have ram air exhaust manifolds on my 66 389.
What gauge wires did you use.
I am using #1 gauge wielding wire.
Thanks.
FB66

FB66,
I actually "cheated" a bit by using a Ford solenoid. I routed the battery cable from the solenoid from the front under the engine mount and shorted the S terminal to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid connections with a copper strip. This way there is power in the battery cable to the starter only during "start". I connected the S cable and the car's positive cable to the rest of the electrical system to the hot terminal from the battery on the Ford solenoid.

Here are factory illustrations showing the routing of the two starter wires and positive battery cable when having the large HO/RA (L67, L74) exhaust manifold.

The engine harness is much longer for the starter wires to travel to the front on the LH valve cover, then down the front of the LH side of engine, then back through an oval tube mounted to the LH engine mount to solenoid.

Battery cable is clamped to the front of fender skirt, then passes above fuel pump and travels with starter wires through the tube to solenoid.

I’ve owned several ‘67 HO cars and this routing and service of the starter is challenging.

I have found the revised installation for 1970 Ram Air starter cable routing less problematic servicing the starter. It also keeps the harness further from the hot manifold.

Ram air exhaust
 

Thank you
60sstuff Very useful info. It's challenging enough just removing the starter. Having to drop it before removing wires.

Yes Sir,
Been there done that too many times.

Get out all the slack in the starter wires and positive cable so the starter will drop down enough to remove them from the solenoid.
I always use a reversed bucket to lower that heavy starter onto for the R&R of the wires.

Another trick that I’ve used is a very long extension with ratchet to go from the front and pass by the motor mount towards the solenoid to remove those nuts.

Good Luck.

I had a 66 GTO when I was in my 20's with headers. I just didn't remember it being that of a PITA.. Now in my mid 70's it isn"t fun.

Replace the inner starter bolt with a 2 foot long 3/8" UNC threaded rod with a nut and lower the starter on it, remove/attach wires while hanging on rod.
Safe and prevents dropping the starter on forehead.

HTH

I actually like 2 threaded rods to use to guide the starter back into place exactly with a floor jack. Mostly cause Im weak and puny and can't hold a starter up and start the bolts

Long threaded rod is a great idea! Work smarter, not harder.

Mini starters are not expensive these days. Ive had good luck with inexpensive ones from summit