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Ames ram air exhaust manifolds
Have motor out of my 66 gto now, dont feel like messing with the dougs headers anymore, was thinking of picking up the manifolds ames sells, do i just put these in the engine bay like i would headers and lower the motor down then attach, or can these be put on beforehand then the motor.
Have oil filter bracket off already, manual car, the Z bar is out . If anyone has these in a 66/67 how was the fit. Thanks Rich |
I had some issues lowering the engine in with both manifolds on in my 66 when I tried to put the engine in with both ram air style manifolds bolted up. I can't recall for sure which side I took off but it went in with 1 manifold on. Having tried with both manifolds on, I would just lower the engine on top of them, keeping the engine raised high enough to get them bolted up, then lower the engine on the frame mounts. I do recall having to access the rear bolts form underneath the car. Just a long extension and swivel socket did the trick. As long as you have the 67 style manifolds, they fit the 66 great.
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Thanks John, don't know if this makes a difference, I have the Kre heads. Seems the biggest issue is getting the down pipes, out of stock at summit and games doesn't have them
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I can say on my 70 gto I can remove and install cast iron ram air manifold’s without even pulling the motor mount bolts. I remove oil filter housing,Zbar and starter. Slides right up in there from down below. And I use RARES 3” head pipes.
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Not sure about the repro manifolds, but GM put the exhaust manifolds on the motor before it was put in the car. That’s what I did a few years ago when I dropped a 455 in my 70 GTO. The motor slid right in with the manifolds on. I would think a 66 GTO would be the same.
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I'm pretty sure that the frame rails are slightly closer to the engine on early GTOs
So it's tighter if you attempt to install the engine with both of the exhaust manifolds attached.
I think I'd try it with just the driver's side attached, since it's got more stuff in-the-way. Then install the passenger's side once the engine settles down onto the frame mounts. Good luck !! |
What made it tight on my 66 was that I had the 4 speed/bellhousing still in the car and I needed to move the engine forward far enough so the input shaft of my transmission would clear the pressure plate as I was lowering the engine in. There just wasn't enough room in my instance to leave both manifolds on and stab the 4 speed into the clutch without a manifold hitting the crossmember. It was about 10 years ago but I remember taking one off and leaving one on. I believe it was the passenger's side that I removed the more that I think about it.
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manifolds
1 Attachment(s)
No problem installing in my 69 GTO and will do the same in my 68 GTO,
My manifolds were/are RamAir Restoration manifolds. Attachment 666444 |
I can see how the engine/ra manifolds would go in easier when you are working with an automatic.
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When I dropped my 421 into my ‘64 Tempest it had the ram air manifolds installed. I mounted the bellhousing afterwards.
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Back in the mid 70s I had a 65 Lemans. I put a 400 in it. Then found 67 oem RA manifolds, put them on. While engine was in car. With RA exhaust system.
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Hey thanks for the help guys, was hoping to hear from some that used the ram air manifolds from ames, think im just gonna lay them in the engine bay like i did with the headers, seems like when you add it all up, about $ 800, almost seems easier to put up with putting the dougs headers back on.
Thanks Rich |
Doug’s headers are good headers. If you already have them along with a complete exhaust system that works with headers I would put them back in. If you’re worried about leaks get a set of Remflex gaskets. Installed correctly they never leak even after years in service. Now if you want the engine to look stock that’s another story.
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