Stay SFT or go Roller
 

Ok so I'm progressing on my build, machine work is taking forever but it is what it is. But I'm killing myself here.

I had Crower custom grind me a solid flat tappet cam and I have a set of NOS Hylift Johnson Solid EDM lifters
250/256 @ .050
522/531 lift with 1.5 RR
112 LSA
Cam card in pictures

But now I'm wondering if I should go with the Howards roller cam #414495-08
237/243 @ .050
.560/.565 lift with 1.5RR
110 LSA

It's about $1200 to make the jump which for rollers isn't too bad but that's going with Howards (Morels) lifters

Here's the details of the car

66 Lemans

400 Block with ARP 2 bolt main studs
.030 over Ross/Butler pistons +20cc dish
Scat 4.25 forged crank
Scat 6.8 Forged rods
Speedmaster 72cc heads cleaned up
KRE dual quad intake

Muncie M20
3.31 rear gear
28" tire

Should I make the jump or just be happy and stay with what I got.

Also I just like talking with you guys and general discussion on the topic

Why are you second guessing your first choice?


Keep in mind if the SFT cam fails you'd be out a bearing job. If the hydraulic roller fails it may take the block with it. You could use the saved money and put it towards the bearing job if needed.

Because I just love driving myself crazy. Lol
I don't know, a mind wonders while sitting still. I think I'll probably just stay SFT as I have really good parts. But still worried about wiping a lobe.

I know the affliction. My brother sometimes accuses me of buying enough parts to build three engines to build one. Then I end up building 3. I just can’t understand why I keep getting behind. LOL

why not us the crower 66963X980 solid lifters w/ cool face oiling

From a SFT I’ve always went to some sort of mechanical roller for an upgrade.

The HLJ lifter with EDM oiling are face oiled just like a cool face Crower. It use to be the same lifter except for slight differences in the EDM, both were from HLJ. I am not sure what the difference is today.

Good video on this stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku2jtm_wPuQ
Keep your sft.
Myself, want nothing to do with any hyd roller. If I am going to upgrade I would go all the way to a custom solid roller with BAM DLC lifters, not cheap. Lash adjustment is really a non issue if you use good parts.

I agree, if what you have is working for you, then stick with it.

If you were contemplating going roller, solid is what I would do too, and you're already dealing with any 'lash concerns', and managing it.

If you are still contemplating another solid cam from what you have, go bigger. A 1:1 swap won't really net you anything except cost.

Nice thing about the M20s is the lower 1st gear ratio. So you could go slightly bigger than usual while still keeping the rear gear the same.



.

Stay with the SFT.

GT

Ok I'll stay with the SFT Crower and stop looking at parts I already have. Thanks guys

Skippy

I have been struggling with the same question. I have a couple builds that will be more the mild then wild side and was planning to use flat tappet lifter setup. Then I watched David Freiburger talk about how he will never use one again, explaining how he took all the preventive steps on a 440 engine and still wiped one out.

It amazes me the factory pumped out millions of cars with flat tappet cams not to mention the years and years of hot rodders doing cam swaps and now we have just lost the magic to reliably put in a flat tappet.

OEM flat tappets had problems too. Tore down many 70-100 k engines and most had worn or flat lobes.
Hard to beat properly built tight lash solid roller with correct springs and stay away from restricted lifter bores in any type street application.

Yeah in fact his motorhome 440 build flat cam fiasco is a big one why I started questioning it again. I had made up mind originally that I wanted a SFT because of old school cool and price. Then I made up my mind I wanted a hydraulic roller for no scares on start up and ease of setting and forgetting. Then of course I made up my mind I should go with the SFT and take the $1000 in savings and place it elsewhere in the build so I ordered a custom cam and all the goodies for it... Now I'm beating my head against a rock.

My last 2 flat tappets were crower and rhoads. Neither one instantly wiped out but inspecting them hundreds of miles later showed wear that was happening quicker than it should have been. Break in procedures were done on a dyno with removal of inner springs, etc. I’m now going roller and hopefully don’t regret it as far as a lifter coming apart and doing damage.

A SFT with EDM oiling and a HFT are in different zip codes for both what can be done with them in terms of profiles, and dependability.

Well I'm going to try what I have and if it turns into live and learn I'll go from there... I think... Or just order a roller cam setup. #@%&!!!!

I would stick with what you have. You already have it from what you wanted originally so go with it. You will always be thinking about whether or not it would have been ok if you did try it. So now that will be bothering you. But that's just me. Just be extra careful when you break it in.

I just had a successful solid flat tappet break in last week. Nitrided cam and EDM lifters and it went smooth as silk.
Used a good break in oil and everything was prelubed. Checked lash after initial run in and a short 20 miles drive and lash only opened up .001-.002" throughout.

I don't think you have anything to worry about as long as everything is done right