Changing an inner tube in a slick
 

I'm changing the inner tube in one of my slicks. Can I just brake the top bead of the tire to replace it?

You can if the sidewall is flexible enough. Baby powder the new tube before install.

Have you thought about running a radial?

Not running a tubes is worth a tenth.

I just looked closely at how much tread is left and came to the conclusion I'm going to run what I have one more time and buy some MT ET Street R drag radials. I checked Summit and they have ET Street Pro in 275/60-15 but not the ET Street R? What is a good starting point for pressure?

Good, I need 0.02 s for a one-time 9.99 timeslip.

I would run the Pro Bracket Radial. It is faster than any other tire I have tried. They were .09 faster than the MT ET street pro radial.
With a 3550lb car I have been 1.33 60ft with stock suspension foot braking, 421, Carter AFBs and 3.90 gear.
I have street driven it as well and they handle good on dry pavement.
I run anywhere from 19-21PSI. Handles great on top end and made the car very consistent.

I just looked at the 28/10.5R15 Pro bracket and they aren't DOT. Are they that much better than the ET Street Radial Pro? What pressure do you run?

Do you need a DOT? I do drive mine on the street with the Pro Bracket Radial, but limited to cruise ins and shows. Usually less than 40 miles one way.
They hook better than the ET street radial. No comparison.
I run 19-21 psi.

Pro Bracket Radials are where its at.
1.35 60 foots on tires on the last legs. Got a new pair and can not wait.
I out 60 foot all the cars at my track in my ET range and they are on race gas while I am on pump gas.
They all told me they don't hook up and are inconsistent. The exact opposite is true and none of the wobbles when I get off the gas either. Very stabile.
The only "negative" are the round corners. Bias do look better, thats it.
I keep mine at 17 lbs. One good burnout to start the day and just fuzz the tires after that.
But i do miss the big burnouts of the old tires, was kinda cool .

I need a DOT for street night or else I would just go with the Pro Bracket. I'll talk to the track to make sure.

We tried out the Hoosier DR3 radials this week. Far superior to the MT stuff from the limited testing so far. Broke an axle or we'd have a lot more data.

Which tire did you use (PN) and how much power are you making?

I'd like to hear some more info. How much power, car type and suspension set up,

3200 lb race weight, C5 vette turbo LS around 1k HP at the wheels on full boost. Independent rear suspension with coilovers, long travel front coilovers. Went 1.21 60' on a warm-up pass, low boost launch let off before the 1/8 but still clicked off a 5.8x. Next pass it hooked hard enough to break. With the same setup it was high 1.2s in the 60' on MT radials last weekend. Car is set up for street legal classes, still has lights and power windows but the HVAC had to go. Motec management is a huge learning curve. It's my friend Dave's car, getting everything figured out as it was supposed to be a mild build and it snowballed.

See above for the car details, it was the ET pro radials 275-15.

The only Hoosier DR3 15" ties on Summit are only 28 tall.

So you picked up almost a .10 in the 60ft with no other changes but tires?

Correct, going to get a new set of MTs and do back to back testing next outing to confirm its all from the tire. Unfortunately there's more damage than the axle, found this morning that the transmission has a few extra neutrals now after replacing the axle. He said it hooked much harder than last week, same tune in the car and the DA was actually better last week. Looking at the logs, he was right, wheel speed didn't show any loss of traction vs some slight tire chatter last week.

Depending on the type of racing you do and track prep needs to be considered when crowning a tire "the best". There are different designed tire "for a reason". If one was clearly the best none of the others would exist.

Just ordered the Hoosier DOT DR 17375DR3 tires, I'll report back after running them.