2000 Trans Am WS6 issue
 

setup, long story: my son had a hi end shop (lambos, ferrari, R8, etc.do some work on his car, new radiator also. Picked it up Saturday, was driving it and the temp gauge went into the red and car started to run poorly. Pulled over and checked it; radiator empty. Closer inspection showed the lower rad hose came off from the water pump; the clamp was on the hose but about 6 in. back from the hose end, clearly the clamp was not reinstalled. He pushed the hose back on, filled the rad, burned his hand, drove it home slowly about 2 miles. The shop towed it yesterday. The shop told him the car was ready today, they did the combustion gas /coolant test, compression, etc. I can get details.

My question to this group is what further things should be checked to insure there had been no engine damage done?

George

That's a 2000 Trans Am, not a 20000, cant edit the title

Hopefully they provided numbers from compression check, leak down, etc?

I think I would do an oil analysis and cut the oil filter open to check for debris.

Not sure on these LS cars if they go into limp mode when overheating is detected? Maybe that helped save the engine….

If it's hurt, it will take some miles before it shows. Aluminum heads and block, so if it's not a major failure like cracked block or similar, it will manifest itself as coolant leaks to start. Keep an eye on the oil fill cap, you will start seeing a milky residue build up if the head gasket starts to leak. The 5.7 LS engines are pretty tough, so there's a good chance it's fine. I would be wary of the shop that didn't reinstall the clamp properly though, I get that mistakes happen but it should have been caught while bleeding the air from the cooling system.

Thanx guys!

George

It'll more than likely be fine. I've had LS's get super hot, and have yet to hurt them due to heat.

As stated, the LS1 is pretty durable, so I wouldn't be too concerned. I'd probably change the oil in case there is any oxidation/thermal breakdown that might compromise its lubricity.

I will say, however, in general coolant flush/fills can be tough on these cars. The way the coolant system is designed, it's difficult to fill the block after a flush. Without a bypass to bleed the system, the will be an air pocket in the upper portion of the block until the t-stat opens and the radiator contents can circulate into the block. The best method for filling the block is using a vacuum fill where you put a vacuum on the coolant system and suck coolant in from a reservoir like a 5-gallon bucket.

Engine damage depends on how long he drove overheated because of this.

Many times a motor that is overheated due to low coolant experiences no damage until it’s filled back up with ambient temperature coolant and then started.

The engine then experiences coolant shock which then causes expanded overheated parts to shrinking down abnormally fast.

This can lead to cracked heads and shifted head gaskets.

I would pressure test the cooling system once the motor get hot enough to open the T stat.

Be careful removing the rad cap when you do this.

Also if the cars rad cap / fill cap sits lower then the highest point of coolant flow the cap needs to left off to burp the air pocket out of the system.

To do this start the motor cold and leave the cap off until some coolant spills over which will take place once the T stat opens.

Thanx Steve! He drove it this weekend and says it's ok, but will continue to monitor it and check the oil filter after some driving miles.

George

I always crack one of the bolts on the front steam ports when filling one. You'll hear the air hissing out as you're filling it. Once you start seeing it dribble out of the port, tight the bolt back down.

Works great. Never have air pocket issues doing that