new motor start up
 

Motor seems to fire up good, i put gas down the center carb, cant keep it running for more than 30 or so seconds before it dies on me.

Book says to unhook fuel line by center carb, and keep cranking untill gas comes up out of the line.................book says crank for about 20-30 seconds with the coil wire removed untill gas comes out of the line.........dont think this is doing the new motor any favors, while running seems good.

Rich

You do not want to crank a new a lot if your breaking in a new cam.

Disconnect the fuel line from the center carb and had hose to it so you can dump it into a jar.

Next pull all the plugs and kill the power to the coil.

Now with the speed that the motor will crank if the fuel system is good you should see fuel entering the jar after 10 seconds of cranking.

ps.
If your breaking in a new cam and lifters you should over fill the pan by 1.5 QTs.

Hey thanks for the info, found the problem, had the hoses wrong on the fuel pump, my wife put those on, im not blaming her, hopefully learned from this mistake, got the car running, took it out for a 25 minute run, trying to seat the rings, all seems good now...................now for the bad news , after 3 motor rebuilds, all leaked by rear main seal....................this is a new block with everything new, forged crank, forged rods and pistons, 2 pc rear main seal, gonna check in the morning after car cools down, but noticed couple small drops of oil on the ground. Said if this leaks again, im done with the old cars, probably best to wait till tomorrow , dump the break in oil, take the inspection cover off im pretty sure after this think leaking for the past 27 yrs i already know what im gonna find.

I have a roller cam in there now, so hopefully i didnt screw anything up............i never cranked on it much, it always fired up right away, just stopped when the carb ran out of gas.

Rich

Yeah sure, blame the wife for the 3 oil leaks too, so is your couch nice and comfy?

Lol, yeah it was her fault, tell the truth im not all that upset about the oil leak, being this is the 4th try at getting that right, i pretty much expected it to leak.

Little info, this time scat crank, 2 pc, last motor stock crank 1 pc, before that stock crank, best gasket seal, 1st try in 2010, stock crank, not sure what was in there., the one pc leaked the worst for me.

Hopefully the cam is ok, its a roller, the OF, was in the car alot of years, all i had done to that was sent it to bullet and they just polished it up.

I'll get under the car tomorrow, change the oil and see if anything is loose, maybe something simple.

Thanks for taking the time

Rich

your cam should be fine if its a roller and they were soaked in oil before install. I think steve was guessing you had a flat tappet

More leaks at the rear of pan??? Did the builder at least run this for awhile to verify leaks etc?

I hate to sound like a broken record but what did they use for the rear oil pan U seal?? Same OEM rubber 3 tab seal... or did you have them do the cork gasket with sealer???

if its leaking in the same spot looking like a rear main... im still saying the rear oil pan seal could be the culprit, it was on mine 2 times and acted just like yours, was never the BOP 1 piece main seal, it was that dang stock 3 tab rubber POS!

Best of luck finding/repairing it... or just live with it like so many pontiac owners do and put down some cardboard. ;)

I hear ya Scott, i sent the cork gasket in with the one piece bop oil pan gasket, i assumed they put that in. Im gonna step away from the car for a few days, still havent recovered from this lastest never ending oil leak. The builder didnt have a run stand so no run in...........with my luck it would run perfect on the stand and then leak when i got it home. Not sure what im gonna do, the motor is under warranty, but i told myself im not gonna ever pull this motor again, 4 times is enough, im just gonna drive it this summer and see what happens.

Rich

Next time your under the car you can look up at the rear of the pan and see if there's the OEM rubber prongs sticking out of the holes in the pan with no RTV... or remnants of cork gasket & RTV sealer poking through the holes and around the edges.

If you didnt specifically tell the builder what that gasket was for and to use it instead of the OEM rubber one, theres a good chance he doesnt know about it and just used the rubber seal and threw the cork one away or into a box of misc gaskets. As far as I know the 1 piece BOP comes with or is designed to use an OEM type rubber rear U seal.

Scott, thanks for the info, i will check but on my oil pan i dont have any holes for the 3 prong rubber gasket to poke thru, will have to check into some things, just a shame its leaking again, but its been leaking since 1999 when i bought the car, just new seals since then, you would think im used to this by now. lol

Rich

I forgot you had a pan without the holes... might still be able to tell if its the cork on the edges? Or, call the builder while its still fresh in his mind and ask what he used... also mention its leaking. I hate to mention this on a new motor, but some type of additive might help limit the leaks like last time, not a rear main sealer but maybe lucas or high mileage oil would help vs pulling the motor again... :eek:

Not sure if your PCV set up is contributing to your issue. Some report solving minor leaks with the M/E Wagner adjustable PCV valve: https://mewagner.com/