Non tilt to tilt conversion
 

I have dash out of car to change to rally cluster and do quartz conversion on clock. I also have a rebuilt tilt column to put in. I was gonna put dash back in to make sure everything works first. Looking at the car, it seems it would be easier to do column swap with dash out. Question is, should swap be pretty straight forward? I know I need to get the ignition/key cylinder out to swap first by pulling steering wheel and removing lock plate. Anything funky because of the seatbelt wiring?

These are the switches on new column.

It's pretty easy to swap a column with the dash in, I've done it a couple times.

Not sure on the seat belt warning wiring, but sure you can look it up in either the assembly or service manual. Pretty sure it ties into the key-in buzzer.

When it comes to the turn harness, sometimes the connectors are different and you might need an adapter. Compare the two columns when they are both out and verify the wires/connection(s).


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I did a later 70's tilt in my 73. Connectors were different, spliced my wiring to accommodate.

Got the old one out. Worst part was getting the ignition cylinder out. What's five minutes on YouTube took at least an hour and a trip to Harbor Freight for picks. Can't go any further until I get a new firewall seal. As far as the switches go.... side by side, it looks like the turn signal wiring is the same and on the other one the plugs need to be turned upside down?

Is the column that has the plug upside down a 'restored' one?

It's probably from when the switch was installed, it's flat and is folded over where it sticks out of the column at the bottom, and possible the switch installer folded it in the opposite direction.

Just flip it over. Pull the connector out of the bracket, unfold, and fold it to the other side.

Got a pic?

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New tilt is on the right. Yes, it’s restored.

Yeah, you might need an adapter, something like this one:

https://www.lectriclimited.com/produ...er-harness-87/

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Did the column come with a wiring diagram?

I don't think you can just go by wire colors on the switch side.



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No it didn’t come with wiring diagram.

My 69 GTO had a non tilt column when I bought it. I installed a tilt out of a 69 grand prix. The ignition switch does "look" backwards on a tilt vs non tilt but it will plug into your dash harness just fine. That is just the way that they are and it is normal.

Well, it looks like it's pretty close, you may have to swap a wire or two.

If you are swapping in a new or original key cyl, in the replacement column you could always pull the switch up a little and verify the wiring. Might even be able to see the wire colors without pulling it up.

You will know if you need the adapter once the new column is in, the harness connector won't physically fit the new connector.



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Wish those were available back in the day. I used butt splices! LOL

Well, things are moving along. Everything seemed to plug in. I’m trying to put turn signal lever on new column, but I can’t access the screw hole? Don’t want to force and break anything. What am l missing?

You'll have to remove the column lock plate to access the screw hole. There is a special tool that will press down on the lock plate, since it is spring loaded, and from there you can remove the retaining clip. If you don't have the special tool but you do have strong thumbs, you can press down on the lock plate and have someone else get the retaining clip out. After you remove that and the canceling cam, you can access the turn signal lever screw.

Thanks John. Everything I've read said lock plate didn't have to be removed to change lever, but the more I look at it, it does like you say.

That's sad. My Firebird columns aren't that way.

Maybe just move the horn contact over to expose the screw hole?

Or re-clock the lock plate?



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I ran into this once on one of my GTO’s and I recall having to remove the lock plate that particular time. But the curiosity got the best of me on another GTO tilt column I have and I do see access to the screw hole with the canceling cam positioned as you see in the picture. However, I did use a canceling cam and lock plate out of a later model column on this particular column. Not sure if this made a difference? Certainly worth a look to see if moving the canceling/horn contact cam helps any.

Its possible that newer cars had an updated plate that allows access to the screw without removing the plate. Not that you need to get to that screw very often but you could probably install the updated plate for future ease of maintenence. Or you could modify your existing plate while it is removed.