Not enough clutch throw?
 

Howdy, recently did a TKX swap in my 1977 Trans Am and I believe I am having a clutch disengagement issue, could have been an issue prior to the swap as well.

New McLeod flywheel, clutch and pressure plate mated to the stock Pontiac 400, Stock bellhousing, and a TKX.

Mechanical clutch linkage so the throw out bearing requires a slight air gap so it doesn't spin, but when I do that I do not get the required .050" gap between the clutch and flywheel like McLeod requires.

I was originally using stock from the factory linkage and it had some slop, replaced with new rods and hiem joints that connect to a hiem join clutch fork. Significantly better action but still does not hit the .050" spec McLeod calls for while keeping a TOB air gap.

Main reason I am concerned is because I noticed notchy shifting and believe the only capable culprit is a poorly configured clutch that may be not fully disengaging. My indexing is well within spec. Thanks.

Make sure the clutch fork has the correct position in relation to the PP fingers. At rest the fork should be angled a bit forward, then when depressed should swing parallel and end up pointing slightly to the rear during it's arc of movement. You might need an adjustable ball stud for the fork to get it in the correct position.

Just my .02. If you really want to enjoy that TKX put in a Hydraulic clutch in with the hydraulic throw out bearing. There is a really nice setup on the market that will replace my current hydraulic setup if the cylinder ever leaks. https://www.malwoodusa.com/ check them out see what you think. I went with the American power train setup when I changed over couple of years ago. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...nid=2044756209 The cylinder leaked after a month in service, which was caused from side loading the master cylinder. I made a bracket to guide the pushrod and it has been leak free for the pass 3 years a least. I like the Malwood setup as it replaces your clutch pedal unit under the dash.

You can also just drill a hole further away from the pivot point on the Z bar to make the throw longer.

This is a pic of my F-body one. I made the hole larger and used a bronze bushing.

I was moding a shifter linkage bushing for a while, but that too was eating into the z bar, due to the heavier PPs I was using at the time.

I too have moved to the Speed Direct linkage, so no need for the bushing. https://www.speeddirect.com/clutch-linkage


Edit: The additional throw allowed me to put a pedal stop where the rubber bumper for the pedal makes contact, lowering the pedal height. That makes it easier for heal-toe technique.

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Adjustable fork ball on mine. Using the heim joint linkages with stock fork & quick time bell housing TKO 600, McLeod flywheel, centerforce clutch & PP

The factory has an adjustment hole to set the correct clutch pedal height. my car uses stock stuff so this worked for me, but maybe won't work with an aftermarket trans??

That malwood setup does look nice. Not sure if I am in the market for another $1000 project and dropping the trans, maybe this winter. My TKX dealer didn't push the idea of a hydraulic setup on me when purchasing my kit. I regret it a little. I've always been told a correct mechanical setup is just as good but I am waiting to see with this f body. Purchased a C5 last week and man is that 6 speed and clutch action smooth as heck.