[firechickenman]

geekwagon - I believe you have mail

I'll go ahead and post it here too so everyone else can see. If you want to run on a temp. switch instead of a toggle, just run from terminal "F" on the relay to the temp. switch, then the other side of the temp. switch to ground.


The fans I used are from a '95 NewYorker and they fit my stock 3-row radiator very well. They came with a 2-speed module/relay attached, and my first thought was to just wire it to use the module. No such luck, the module was bad and would not let the left fan work. So, I went to plan 2. I robbed some relays off a late 80's or early 90's Buick Century. They have a "bank" of relays behind the passenger's headlight fo the fuel pump, cooling fan, etc. Get the wiring connectors with at least 6" of wire and the mounting bracket also - they come in handy!! The relays can be mounted where the original module was.

I can draw up a diagram if you need me to, but my artistic skills suck, so I'll try to describe the wiring. From the battery positive (B+) post, I ran a heavy gauge wire (10 or 12 ga) through a heavy duty 30 amp fuse holder, then split it to run to the "A" terminals on both relays. Then from the "E" terminals on the relays to the positive lead on the fans (if I remember right, it is blue on the driver's side, and tan on the passenger's side). Then simply run a heavy gauge wire from the ground leads on the fans (I spliced mine into one common wire near the fans, both black if I remember right) to the negative battery post. The fan "power" circuit is now complete, and the fans will run on full battery voltage anytime the relays are switched on.

Now for the fan "control" circuit. This circuit will only carry about 1/2 amp of current, so small wires (18-20 ga.) are fine. From the fuse box "accessory" terminal, I ran a wire to the relays and split it to run to the "D" terminals on each relay. Then from the "F" terminals, I ran 2 seperate wires back inside the car to 2 seperate toggle switches. If you use simple one position switches, the wires from the relays go to one terminal, and the other terminal is connected to ground. Now if you have the key "on", and the switches "on", the control circuit will switch the relays on, which will power the fans.

I don't think the fans are going to cool quite as good as it did with the factory shroud and a flex-fan. That's not a major concern of mine since my main goal here was to free up some HP for the track. The best part is the fact that the only things I had to buy were the toggle switches, some wire, and connectors. I have maybe $20 in the whole thing (I'm not going to mention how many hours, LOL).