I got the bellhousing dialed in today, and the flywheel bolted up.
I used Tavia offset dowel pins to index the bellhousing, as it was out about .015 with the factory dowels.
Getting the factory dowels out and the new dowels in was a major PITA. I did it last weekend but don't think I ever posted about it.
Basically, I welded bolts to the factory studs and used a large socket and a motley assortment of washers to draw them out (no room under the car to use a slide hammer dowel puller).
The Tavia pins have to be custom sanded to fit your block with about .0005 clearance--this took for friggin' ever with emery paper, but I got it done.
You also have to drill and tap holes in the side of the block for setscrews to keep the dowel pins from rotating--I used the jig Tavia sells to drill the holes (with an angle air drill). Didn't take too long at all and wasn't too much of a pain.
So, anyway, I got the bellhousing dialed in with .0015 (one and a half thousanths) of runout, which is well within the .005 limit the documentation I have says you need to shoot for. It only took three or four tries, and I pulled the bellhousing off then reinstalled it a couple of times to make sure things didn't move (they didn't, thank god).
At this point I'm just waiting for a clutch alignment tool (nobody local has one, so I ordered one from Summit) and then I'll be able to bolt everything up!
The block plate and flywheel all bolted up:
You can also see my roller pilot bearing, which I bought at NAPA after destroying the one Fortes sent me. It's Timken #7109 (the NAPA number is the same).
I also took a picture of the cool transmission jack I bought at Harbor Freight:
It rolls a LOT easier on those big castors than my floor jack does, and you raise/lower it with a 1/2" drive socket in the back. Cost something like $60, IIRC.